Form2 with Photocentric3D


#1

I tried the resin photocentric 3d firm white and a very sad result. I think there is too much light or heat.
-Color pink: resin clear formlabs + dye (very good result)
-Color white: resin photcentric firm white - printed like clear resin formlabs 0,05 mm

I’ll keep trying but adding dyes, so it is possible to compensate for the excess of light.
I am interested in the results of others who have form2 and use this resin.


#2

I spoke with Photocentrics at the T.C.T. show here in the U.K. this week. They told me they are aware of the over-curing issue and are planning to address it.


#3

Very interesting!
thanks for the info.


#4

I have achieved a positive result of mixtures: :slight_smile:


-2/3 photocentric3d firm white resin and 1/3 formlabs clear resin and dyes

I think the best resin to form 2 is formlabs resin. But for now I have to make mixtures because the very high price of resin …


Jointed doll with form2
#5

I agree with your comment about price and because we are doing engineering work like sandcast patterns and moulds, we use a lot of resin each print, so the cost is significant.

However there is also quality. If you look at the photos below of moulds made for wax , then the Formlabs grey prototype resin is very stable (and is dimensionally excellent), but the Photocentric Firm resin is falling apart after only 3 waxes cast.

We have used the Formlabs grey for sandcasting patterns and core boxes. If you have ever been to a ferrous sand casting foundry, you will know they are not the most delicate and careful workers and yet the Formlabs resin survives the rough treatment very well.

The Photocentric resin has got a ways to go in terms of durability imho.

The Photocentric mould after three uses (printed using FL Grey settings, post-cured 3 hours / 30W 405nm UV.

The FL Grey mould after ten uses - still showing no signs of fatigue.


#6

Possibly try Tethon 3d’s porcelite. It is a ceramic resin that can be casted into with hot metals like aluminum or bronze.


#7

Very interesting your comment.
Thanks for sharing!
I have a question: to unmold the wax, you apply a product on the mold surface?


#8

Owooo Very interesting too !!! I would love to see that!


#9

You can use a mold release for wax. You can also skip the wax and cast directly into the ceramic resin once it is fired. You can make a ceramic mold with Porcelite. The mold can be used to cast wax or bronze


#10

Yes. Silicone-based mould release. I don’t know if this creates a problem with the Photocentric resin that is not the case with the FL resin.


#11

fantastic! It has been used with form2?


#12

Yes. Use either open mode to print, or fill a resin tray and print on white, flexible or black settings with an empty cartridge. Once it is done printing. Cure it like normal black resin and then fire in a ceramic kiln to turn it into a ceramic object.


#13

Thank you! I want to try casting of metal


#14

Awesome! at what temperature it is cooked? 1250 C as porcelain?


#15

I did some testing for a client with the porcelite resin. Didn’t get very good results, could only get prints at .1mm and had to max out the support structures. It also pretty much ruined the tank after only 4 or 5 prints as the resin was so viscous it removed the pdms from the tank.


#16

I am sorry to hear that. When did you test the material. The material has been updated to resolve a lot of the initial kickstarter issues. contact tethon 3d and they will be happy to help you out.


#17

Porcelite works well at that temperature. It can go a little hotter too.


#18

Hi Tethon3D

It was a kickstarter batch supplied by the client, it’s no biggie that the pdms came out, I just glued it back in again!


#19

Did you ever try casting tests with hotter metals like silicon bronze?


#20

What glue did you use to do that? That can be a good to know. We have been working to improve porcelite since the kickstarter. Let us know if you need anything.