First prints!

First prints with form2. Printing another set today. I wanted to see how different angles would affect the detail in the pictures. The horizontal disk was the worst of the 3. Letters were more shallow and less defined, The 45 degree and verticle prints were very close. The vertical had a little bit rougher background but i dont have an issue with that. Other wise the detail on thew writing is very impressive! Looking forward to lots more experimenting, Now to cast?



Nice! There is another thread on the forum that deals with the horizontal streak you’re seeing on the bottom one on the background. If the bottom was the base on the build platform, then there was a discussion about a line that appears maybe 4-5 mm above the build platform, and I think the solution was to raise it slightly.

What will you cast them out of? What program are you using?

These are done in gemvsion matrix 8.0. I will test cast in sterling but once i get the casting process down, I will print another pair and cast in 14 karat yellow. The disk is 25mm and will be a pair of cuff links. I will do another test verticly and raise it to see if it disappears. Thansk for the tip

Which resin did you use doesn’t look like formlab castable???

It is formlabs castable. I cured it for approx 3 hours under uv. I am casting a sample today, I’ll post results

Color appears much lighter in photo than in actuallity

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Be sure to get a short, soft bristled brush to help remove resin from the small areas. I brush my parts 5-min after start of first bath, and again before transferring to the second bath… being sure time get the bristles down into the nooks and crannies.

Makes a world of difference. Your text will come out much better… I promise!


Looking forward to your casting results!

thanks! i will try that. I usually use my steamer to blow out the letters from milling. Think that might be okay with resin?

It may… all you really need to do is to wipe away the bulk of the resin, so that the solvent can do it’s job. The IP works on thin films, but the high viscosity makes it pool and really cling to fine internal features. I think the ideal would be an ultrasonic bath for the IP wash… but until I find a cheap one, manually working the bulk of the resin from small internal features works well.

It’s like using a brushless car wash -vs- brushes… It’s always cleaner with the latter.

Well… first casting did not come out at all. The lettering disintegrated and fine detail also did not come out. I was using satin cast which i suspected might not work, Will try another one with r & n plasticast. Hopefully that will work better…

The streak is from coplaner faces. You need to extend one shape through the other and save the file out as an obj. I ran into that a few times and figured it out. I use obj files when I have multiple mesh groups that make up the model because Preform is able to interpret the shapes and merge them. If they are a single mesh group as in an stl file then you will have hollows where the the shapes intersect.

Co-planer faces where one surface occupies the same plane as another surface will cause a streak because you have normals facing opposite ways in the same area and Preform gets confused and tries to merge them causing lines extending all the way to then next surface (rim in your case).
I usually extend the surfaces so they intersect by just a couple of thousandths and that does the trick.

I did notice you have some filling in on the letters. I do similar work but really scrub the parts well to make sure. You can use a chip brush, some use electric tooth brushes or regular tooth brush to make sure they are clean. I use an ultrasonic cleaner with a water based system which works well for my purpose. You can also check the clarity of the model and details by using silly putty and take an impression. If your using IPA make sure the part is dry so the putty doesn’t dissolve.

If your doing backs as well you can print a small tab to help align the 2 halves and trim them off later. I use clear resin so i can see both halves to line up. I use some raw resin to tack them together then post cure to solidify the rest internally.

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@arthurr43, I only use Satincast and have no problems. Someone else on the forum suggested using Satincast with borax and they said it made it stronger. I have not tried that solution, but I’m having no problems with Satincast. Please let us know what your results are with Plasticast.

Also, do you mind me asking what temperature you’re casting your silver at? Also, are you using the recommended burnout schedule from Formlabs, or other? What is your flask temperature when you cast? Are you using a vacuum casting setup?

I use a soft flat paintbrush to brush the prints during the first IPA bath, then again during the second IPA rinse. I’m getting very clean prints. I have had to adjust my graphics a little to make sure that the designs don’t run together.

Also, do you mind me asking what temperature you’re casting your silver at? Also, are you using the recommended burnout schedule from Formlabs, or other? What is your flask temperature when you cast? Are you using a vacuum casting setup?

> **KAT, I used a modified burnout of the recommeended. IU have to cut down on the hours slightly becuase o the hours I am at the store. I dont think that was the problem though. I also used a wax wash which i always use for wax. Not sure it that caused an issue with the resin. May try again without the wash to see it if makes a difference.** I cast at 900 degress form silver. Using tru silver grain from hoover and strong. Have used it for years with wax at that temp with no issues. I have a memco 7000 eletrovac vacuum casting setup. Been very effectice for the last 7 or 8 years

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I just noticed that you mentioned postcuring for 3 hours. What type of UV chamber are you using? The lower-powered nail spas typically require 6-8 hours, depending on the size and thickness of the piece. You should see a noticeable color change in the resin, in addition to a “feel” change from soft and pliable to tough and very brittle. Without a full post-cure, casting failures like you described can happen.

for sure you mustn’t use cast wash…it makes kind of a reaction with resin and ends braking the investment


Here is my first print from a while ago :slight_smile:


Very cute!

@ David

Thanks for the tip. Casting again same part saturday without wax wash, Changing 1 thing at a time until they come out


I am using a small nail cure uv chamber. I will add some more length of time and see if that helps I am casting another without wax wash to see if that helps. I will change 1 thing at a time to see what works, Still in experimenting phase. So Far t love the machine