I am casting with the FLCABL02, and not having any problems. I just got my Form 2 this week, and have run maybe 6 print jobs so far, and no problems. Are you on the Form 2 or Form 1?
Hillzzz, I see you’ve got an urgent job…if you’d like to send me a file, I can run it through with my next batch and see if it will print. I just started a print job about 30 minutes ago, but will probably print again later this evening. I’m in Austin…are you in the US? Also, are you using the supports and orientation suggested in PreForm, or making your own?
I just had an error on mine saying the motor was jammed or an obstruction in the tank…but the new V2 resin is not transparent and I can’t see anything in the tank. I didn’t see anything on the build platform that might have caused a problem. I told it to ignore, and it’s printing again. I’m on layer 123…I’m wondering if it’s the base I created? See image above.
HI Thats very kind of you - unfortunately I am in the UK. I am not sure what the problem is - I got 8 good prints then they stopped sticking to the build platform. Now prints that worked before don’t but clear resin works perfectly.
Thank you for reply.
My last marquise ring 18kYG and marquise earrings has been made in german casting co too
Horbach also from Prorzheim
it was my the best result.
Thank Jurgen for sharing the information. Your result is really pretty good.
For the ones on the right you would want to tilt them slightly so that one of the bottom corners is the first part that prints. If you have long flat surfaces that are aligned to the bed then when it gets to that layer it very often turns out bad, so it’s better to tilt the print and have it build up from a small point to a bigger point. It also makes for a cleaner edge for where the supports are. You will still have some cleanup required, but those prints should be very easy to sand down the edges where the supports are.
Thanks, Zachary. One of the problems I’m having is distortion of the shapes, though. If I’m allowing PreForm to orient the models, my rectangles are not true, and circles are not truly round. I did have a lot of success with keeping the square pendant frame true…the one that caused the problem this time was a rectangular pendant on tiny stilts…it didn’t like that one. One boat pendant failed and fell off the platform, I think because the base was too small, but the other was a perfect print. I beefed up the stilts a little, and am printing again right now. Thanks again for your advice!
how are you?
If you be so kind, could you tell what has been changed in new resin ?
What are the major differences/properties?
maybe better photoinitiator or maybe something else?
There are two big points:
1 it is tuned for a thinner layer thickness which means finer details are resolved
2 we significantly retuned the print process (in software) to get smoother surfaces and better detail
What problems are you seeing? I have just done some casts with castable v 2 Not perfect. but getting closer. The problems I am seeing with V2 are getting prints to stick to the build plate. They have a habit of falling off at around 2mm. I am using R&R plastics for my casting with the Formlabs recommended burn-out and I am still getting small flakes missing from surfaces often on the inside surfaces and also flashing along the sharp edges of thicker items. I am going to try adding borax to the plaster mix next to see if that strengthens the plaster.
Thanks for replying fast. Casting actually works fine for me, i also see some flash but not really an issue for me. But i have the problem of making prints to stick to buildplate, have you worked this out? It’s such a downer to find the piece in the tank and resin filled with flakes afterwards.
I have the same problem and I have not found an answer yet. I did have an idea what might be causing it and I emailed Support with the suggestion for their engineers to look at. How far do your prints get? mine only get to typically about 2 millimetres so just the base prints before it comes off.
Well I thought that the print base shape makes a sort of suction cup shape and would tend to stick to the bottom of the tank like a suction cup and so it needs some small gaps in the rim of the print base to break any vacuum formed when the print head tries to lift the print off the base.
