Castable wax and yellow magic


#1

Has anyone used Yellow Magic 7 with the castable wax resin?

Kathleen


#2

< raises hand >


#3

Hah! I figured it’d be you or the dentists.

Does it work? I’ve read your earlier experiments with Yellow Magic and the blue castable. I’m getting a sample sent to me to try and I was going to begin with your protocol. Any additional information would be helpful. I’m stuck. It’s difficult to get IPA and the TPM manufacturers wont send to a residence.

Thanks. Kathleen


#4

Hey Kathleen,
Every resin I’ve tested cleans up better with Yellow Magic 7 than with IPA.
YM7 even cleans things that shouldn’t come in contact with IPA-- like the PDMS layer in resin tanks.
The biggest issue with FormLabs Castable Wax resin is the need for an excessive amount of post-print curing to avoid pitting of the final cast surface. My current experiments using YM7 and a heated ultrasonic cleaner are leading me to think the pitting has less to do with casting investment choices and burnout schedules, and more to do with initial, incomplete laser exposure, but more tests are necessary.

pinholes
Hope this helps,
JD Davison
Lab Partners Jewelry


#5

Thanks. I know you’re on a form 3 from other posts. I’m on a form 2 using buckets. I’ll check for surface junk, do an IPA and YM7 comparison when I get the stuff next week.


#6

Just let me know if you’d like to see a comparison print.

-JD
Lab Partners Jewelry


#7

Hi JD
I am very interested in your methods of post print curing. … i have read a white paper on Vaccume oven curing method … but have yet to try it out . .what do you think are your best post print cures :slight_smile:


#8

I noticed that FL are selling 5L of TPM wash solvent at GBP82.80 on their UK website. Not cheap but available.

Can be found under post processing in their shop.


#9

Here I are my YM7 experiences. I began with buckets and I have to say don’t even bother trying them unless your work is just flat with no details. I bought an ultrasonic cleaner that Ken Citron suggested on one of the other threads. 16 minutes works for me. Less than that doesn’t remove all the loose resin from the crevices and detailed places.

I have problems with the odor of YM7, but I had problems with IPA also. It’s worse when things are drying than when the liquid is around so I place all my soaked paper towels in a plastic bag immediately after using them. I rinse the parts with water (also to get rid of the smell) and then the go directly into the IPA for 3-5 minutes. Sometimes I remember to dry them in between.

Then the parts do need to be cured.

It’s a bit more work than the IPA baths. The instructions with the ultrasonic cleaner were quite adamant about cleaning the thing after each use, so that’s an added step. What I’m trying to work out now is when to remove the supports. I find it’s even more globby in that area than the usual support mangling of your model. I make small things so it’s a big deal. I’m hoping if I take them off after the ultrasonic that the IPA will dissolve whatever’s left in that area.

The globbiness might just be with the grey standard. When I used castable wax earlier, I DIdn’t have that problem even with the buckets.

Kathleen


#10

Hi @Tex,
I find that submersion in water helps speed up the UV post-print cure process tremendously. If it’s a sunny day, I’ll place it outside, otherwise, I’ll use a UV nail lamp and a motorized rotating stand.
-JD