Yeah that’s my favorite part! Definitely makes the printing experience a little nicer. I just hope (and was assured from the MadeSolid guys) that they fixed the brittleness, as the last batch was a little too brittle for my liking.
Do you know if it may be castable?
My Spot-HT is on it’s way. It maybe my Form1 but I just don’t feel it has the accuracy I need to create jewellery patterns. The preform supports are always letting down prints by the contact they make. Monger you need to give us some pointers when setting supports in the b9 software : )
Jesse,
For jewelry, especially rings, forget using the automatic supports. In the b9 software, or in rhino, you need make base for the shank of the ring and then a support down the middle. You can then add thin supports for the overhang areas.
The idea is that instead of putting lots of supports, you put one thick support at the beginning of your print, that will hold/support the entire ring through the process.
The problem with the preform supports is that no matter how many supports you have, if you are printing something at an angle, then you only have 1 support in the very beginning. So if your attachment point is a wimpy little thing, then guess what, the part may move a little, or a lot, depending how sticky the resin is and how damaged your resin tank is. That’s why we get those nasty peel lines.
By reinforcing the bottom / first spot that is going to printed, you are making sure that the part doesn’t move at all, no matter how much peel forces there are. Since the part then won’t move during the peel process, then when part comes down for the next layer, it lands in the same area.
I have tried this with my cross and it came out about 5 times smoother than what I have been showing on the forum. Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of the print before I sent it for casting testing (which failed)
I’m attaching quick and dirty images of the preform setup for the cross and the b9 setup for the cross so that you can see what I mean. (what I said here is not just for rings, but pretty much for anything that is delicate)
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I certainly see what you mean MD, thanks for the instruction. One thing that may be problematic is that not all rings need a big feed sprue (support) or you’ll end up paying for metal that’ll go to waste. Anyways I’ll give it a go.
you can always cut the sprue or trim it down to size / thickness that you want after the part has printed and cured.
Jesse,
If you want, you can send me the part and I can put the supports on there and send it back to you. Just to see if it will print better.
Hey MD,
thanks for those two screenshots. This is definitely a useful inside into what anyone should pay attention to.
I am sure the formalbs software guys will also see your screenshots and possibly integrate this into one of their next upgrades.
Etienne
I can’t wait to see how Madesolid SubG+ resin works out. Spot-a’s high shipping charge to where i am makes the price almost even to just buying from formlabs.
oops, i meant madesolid resin and subg+(by makerjuice).
I have used MakerJuice 1.20, 1.00 and 0.80 resins with much better success than the FormLabs bottles. I have a freind who has his PhD in UV resins and he told me about the MakerJuice guy. Good prices, but it clouds the tank much quicker than the formlabs resins
James,
How about posting some images of these successes. I have tried the makerjuice resin and it sticks to the pdms and clouds it from just one print. Unless this is a new formula. Oh and also smells really bad and gave me a headache.
James,
I only see SubFlex, SubG, and SubG+ listed as resins… What are your referenced resins of 1.20, 1.00, and 0.80?
Got my Spot-HT and it doesn’t look promising or even close to generating any pleasing results. As recommended used on “Clear” @ “0.05” but has come out deformed and left a mark on my trays silicon, also this material is smelly.
Got my first liter of MadeSolid Blue Resin today. Tried the BMW keychain I designed and the ShyLight I printed a while back from Thingiverse. Overall, this resin is much less viscous than FormLabs resin. The print was at 50 microns and took about 3.5 hours. Over the initial black resin that I tested this resin is much less brittle. I still ended up breaking a piece of the ShyLight off because I was a little rough in breaking off supports. On the Keychain I had a slight loss of detail on the back. Usually the type is fully inset and legible. I’m going to retry this on 25 micron and see if that helps. Definitely not a replacement for Form Labs resin for me but another tool in the tool belt and great to have another color! Also the ability to wash it in water is nice. The last picture is the ShyLight in Form Labs Simple Grey next to the MadeSolid Blue
Jesse,
That looks like it’s overcuring. Are you sure they sent you the resin made for the form1? If they did, you should ask for a refund. I had a feeling there was something fishy about those guys when they refused to send me a sample.
Dylan,
Regarding “definitely not a replacement for the form labs resin”. Isn’t that sorta what Madesolid promised us? Better cheaper resin? Higher resolution and better surface quality? From those pictures, looks the the form labs resin is kicking ass.
I just got my madesolid resin and haven’t even opened the box after those pics.
Hey Monger, I think I was a little misleading in my word choice. Since I print a lot of camera mounts and things requiring strength and flexibility the slightly more brittle nature of the MadeSolid resin doesn’t give me that. For surface finish this stuff is great (very smooth almost matte feel). I’m thinking that using the 25 micron setting might give amazing detail thanks to the strong pigment in the resin. I think I lost detail on my keychain because of the 50 micron setting. I’ll update with some new pictures when I test 25 micron later this week. I also think due to the drop in viscosity people may have better luck with big models (less of a vacuum effect). That’s what I meant by another tool in the arsenal.
Dylan,
You were not wrong about the MadeSolid resin. Fine detail is lost during printing. You cannot even compare it to the form labs resin. I’m very disappointed, because I had high hopes about this resin.
Also, the resin sticks really hard to the printing platform and thus it may stick really hard to the PDMS. I have peel lines all over some areas of the prints that suggests that it sticks. This is not optimal for fine details.
I will post some pictures once the parts cure to show the result.
Hi monger,
Do you have any pictures of your print with the MadeSolid resin ?