The problem is that when I install the White V4 resin cartridge with the V3 tank, I get an error message stating that the two don’t match. How do I get around this?
I could pour the V4 resin into the V3 cartridge, but not sure if this is the best way to go.
You have the option to ignore, and after that the tank will be assigned to v4 resin.
Are there intentions to launch a new Standard Black with a reworked formula? If yes, when?
It’s nearly a year since the launch of Black V3/V4 and I’m waiting urgently for a useable Standard Black, which really works with my Form 2 (like the former Black V2).
After more prints with new White V4, i notice that its more brittle than V3.
I love the fantastic blue color of the tough V4. Would it be possible to still sell the V4? I do not care if it is a little more cost either.
While I also dig the “electric blue” of the Tough V4, it becomes green-ish once properly cured so it doesn’t really matter… I would love a cured Tough that is as blue at uncured Tough V4 tough.
That is odd. My completely cured tough V4 does not have even the slightest hint of green. It takes several hours of curing time in a strong bath of UV to cure properly. Mine looks just like the formlabs V2 V3 thread picture that shows the chess pieces.
John, why would yours be different ??
FYI, the tough V5 takes 6 hours to cure in my Form Cure before it feels strong and looses all its sticky feeling. The V5 also warped more than the V4 in post cure.
Odd indeed. In our Form Cure the part are definitely more green after either 60 or 120 minutes at 60°C.
As for the tackiness, are you sure ou are cleaing the parts properly ? After the IPA bath I blow the parts with compressed air and right after that they already feel “dry” (albeit definitely not “strong”), it’s maybe a bit better after post-curing but not by much.
I think the uncured tough V4 resin looks very blue to me and so does the uncured tough V5.
I always have washed my freshly printed parts thoroughly by hand but now I have the form wash which works great… I do dry them with compressed air after washing in IPA. They are slightly sticky if you push into them and they are not stiff. After curing the tough V4 or V5 resin the parts are strong and hard with no stickiness left.
So, I am wondering if my tough V4 parts are so blue because with them I only used my old home made LED curing station.
With my tough V5 resin parts I have only used the form cure at 60°C. They come out a blue-green…
Is that it then? Is it the form cure heat that is changing the color?
I would suspect so. Our old-ish Tough parts were noticeably more blue even after post-curing in our home-made oven, and they are blue-green since we received the Form Cure. In my case I know I was curing at 60° but we were using old tubes that were between 360 and 420nm but probably most of the output was in the 360-680 band.
Tough v3+ requires a very long cure time unless you use heat. My homebrew (unheated, UV only) takes 4+ hours to cure Tough parts to blue-green. (Prior to this, I cured for 2 hours and the parts remained a bit too flexible and definitely not as strong).
If you look at the FL whitepaper on curing, adding heat to the UV improves strength by 50-100%.
I decided to do a couple of tests. The tough V5 after printing is very blue. If you cure it with UV and no heat with the form cure, it will stay very blue. It will take 6 to 24 or more hours to cure in the form cure with heat turned off. And even then I am not sure it ever fully cures. However I do have some very blue tough V4 parts that are hard and stiff and appear to be completely cured.
If you cure tough V5 with the form cure at 100 degrees F for 6 hours it will get pretty cured and the part will slightly turn a greenish blue.
If you cure tough V5 with the form cure at 140 degrees F for 6 hours it will get very cured and the part will turn a blueish green. This is not a pretty color to me but the parts are strong.
So I am taking back what I said above, Obviously this V5 is almost the same color as the V4.
Wait, so v4 doesn’t require heat for a full cure, but v5 does?
Weren’t they supposed to be exactly the same, and mixable (just a supplier change)?
I am not saying there is a difference between tough V4 and V5 that I have discovered. Only that I have not tried to cure the V5 for 24 hours in my old UV only (no heat) curing station.
I may have additionally set those year old V4 parts in direct sunlight for a few hours, I just do not remember. I will be testing very extended curing times with no heat in my form cure and in my old home made curing station ASAP.
I am going off the assumption that V4 and V5 are identical. So, I am going to try to recreate the fully cured very blue state in the V5. There is no doubt that adding heat speeds up curing time and drastically changes the color of tough V5.
I do still have plenty of V4 left but I am going to leave it on the shelf for now and only work with the V5.
Ah, got it.
Where is the abort button? I don’t have any way to bypass. Thanks! -Tom