Has the manufacturer or supplier mentioned whether anyone’s tried it on a Formlabs printer?
Some tips I noticed from the user manual for that resin:
Use the longest exposure times the printer allows for pre set settings
3D printers most suited for Ferrolite printing have a slide separation mechanism for layer separation with a wiper bar or resin mixer during printing
Heating is not recommend unless the viscosity is too high for the printer. Keep the printing temperature as close to 24*C as possible.
I’d start with a small, really simple part just to validate that you get curing and adhesion to the build platform (e.g. Something like a 15mm cube that prints directly on the base). Probably try Open Mode first.
If it looks promising and you’re keen on getting the wiper going, you can buy a Universal Cartridge and trick the printer into thinking it’s a stock resin. If you’re really brave, have some electronics skills, and want to use the wiper without the heater, you can “sabotage” the heater by removing some of the wires from the header where it connects to the motherboard. I covered pinouts in this post. It will take longer to start prints and you’ll have to tap through some warnings.
If I recall, Castable has a high exposure power, so it might be a good profile to start with - unless someone else knows of one that pushes even more power from the laser. I wonder if Ceramic settings might also be worth a shot, given that it’s likewise formulated for sintering (and I’m guessing has high filler content).
Also, if you find you need longer exposures, here’s a neat trick: Duplicate your part in Preform (several times if you want), zoom in, and align the copies to all be positioned in exactly the same spot on the build platform (down to the pixel). That will cause the laser to make multiple passes per layer.
Aside from Draft, I think the Formlabs resins tend to be less light-sensitive than typical SLA resins designed for other printers. If it turns out you need less exposure, you can try one of the other profiles.
If you have a Form 1+ around, it supports OpenFL which lets you create custom resin profiles giving you more control over the exposure settings (and independent “knobs” for the supports vs. the model itself).
Ferrolite has been mentioned on the forums a couple times in the past, might be worth reaching out to @Rovermars to see if he ever got it to work.
I’m really interested to hear how your experiments go. It would be pretty cool to be able to print parts directly off the printer that become 100% metal after sintering.