Test of Blue-Cast: compatible and castable resin



Now, if only you had a distributor in the US.


Hi, actually we delivery from Italy to US.

If someone wants to collect orders or distribute, is welcome.


Hi! Form 1+ with Blue-Cast compatible resin (castable v2 - 0.025 res.)
Traditional casting, the only difference is to raise the temperature to 800 ° C.
I am very happy with the results. It is very easy to work with blue-cast. I recommend it!!


Hi, nice result.

Some suggestions:

  • for very small patterns we suggest you to print the whole tree instead of using wax rod in order to save metal. 4mm usually is good for metal to flow.

  • if you use gypsum based investment and long (> 4h) cycle there is no need to increase temperature, after 3h over 650 Celsius the BlueCast is completely gone.


Another reliability/accuracy tests.
Form1+ _ Gray v2 profile _ 0.05mm res. _ More than 20 rings _ printing base completely full

0 defects


Another casting test: White gold


Uploading… See you soon in 2017 with some news


HA! Using dental investment? I can cast any non-castable resin with dental investment. Why don’t you cast it with satincast or plasticast and then we’ll talk.


Hi JDragon. We have many friends who use satincast with our resin. Pictures of our friend Gregory from USA: work with satincast - fast bornout cycle. With our resin UV postcuring is not necessary. This makes BlueCast interesting for the dental industry. You can merge without deformation


Any photos of raw castings with satincast?


I cast with plasticast and satin cast in 14kt, 18kt white,yellow & platinum I usaully dont take pictures of every step but ill start showing step by step results as i go. Ive only been casting with blue cast about 1.5 weeks. I do alot of orders and every piece ive made so far with blue cast was with a 2hr burnout. Im VERY VERY happy with the results and now cannot do without it.


I just received my order of resin today. Can you tell me a little about how you set up your printer for it? From what I see I need to print in grey profile but I only have an empty castable jug. My plan is to put a piece of tap over the nozzle on the grey bottle and then put that in the printer and then just manually pour into a new tray. Do you have any other suggestions and what temperatures are you using in your 2 hour burnout?


You need use open mode. You can see more at https://formlabs.com/support/printers/form-2/open-mode/
Be carefulness; do not mix the BlueCast with other resin. For bornout temp and time see previous post :wink:


You can cast BlueCast using ANY investment that works with wax, gypsum or phosphatic binder based.
Bluecast simply has no expansion during heating, it will shrink instead of expanding and will sublimate and residuals will burn leaving almost no ash.

Use of dental investment is a good choice when you need to cast within 2 hours from print and/or you do not want to waste energy in long time burnout, but you can cast traditional cycle also 12 hours long, there is no problem.


Hello guys, I would like to share my experience with Blue Cast resin.
I have a Form 1+ and long ago 'I did send the resin tests to melt.
Material: Silver
used coating: Standard
special precautions before casting: None

I think that with the right coating that is coming to me, things can only get better.

I am attaching the photos, consider you and let me know what you think.



Glad to finally see results from an actual user instead. Those are not great results on that large ring. Sorry to say.


In fact for me it is better than the formlabs resin. Having these results with a coating of 25 € for 22 kg. for me it is a great achievement. Resin formalbs with Plasticast R & R and melting cycle from 14 hours I have had bad results … I hope to be of help.


You removed the photos? Don’t want anyone to see them?


@Donata_Fanelli, I think there may be a problem with your image or folder of images? Would you mind reposting?