Test of Blue-Cast: compatible and castable resin

@RickyMcG - Could you please share the file for the skull ring? I want to make a pen holder out of it.

Chris

You can give a try to BlueCast LS (low shrinkage)

This requirement to immediately cast after printing is not something my workflow can tolerate.

I’ve bought Daylight Castable resin. Here’s my best print with Castable V2 0.025 settings.
I can’t get any further print after this point.
Printing with Grey resin settings was even worse.

What can I try next? Can someone advice what to do?

Daylight castable? The one from photocentric3D? That’s not suitable for the Form2.

Are you sure? I bought this according recommendation that it is suitable.

Interesting… Daylight resin is formulated to be highly reactive.

They sell a UV castable resin specially designed for the form2:
https://photocentricgroup.com/uv-laser-resin/#CASTABLE

Hey @rclaborne! Did you ever mention how much boric acid to add to the investment? Is there a ratio?

Start with 1.5% of water weight. Increase to 2% if not hard enough.

Does anyone have burnout cycle for Bluecast X10? Is it the same as original?

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For X10 you can butnout just like Wax, just use the burnout recomended by your investment.
I do even shock burnout with phosfate bonded investment, invest and after 20 minutes just put the flask in preheated oven at 900 deg C , hold for 1 hour and cast. This is for CrCo alloy casting

Hi, 3d_garage
What casting machine do you use to cast this?

I can print bluecast with Form3? I have tried to print with casteble wax resin ā€˜purple’ but I have had a bad experience. Someone knows a solution to this problem?

Hi guys, I own a form 3 and I’m highly disappointed with the casting results. I am looking forward to buy blue cast. Can someone pls help me with how to set up bluecoats with form 3? Is it compatible or not? Which one should I go for x5 or x10?