Printing fence


#1

So I am testing limits of precision and how small details can it print, here is print of fence som 90cm in reality, scaled 1:50 that is 1,8 cm tall with flower details, print was good, but now I have different problem, how to remove supports :smiley: I tried but it is so tough that you brake fence. Is it better after print to remove before putting in IPA? Support: point size is 0.40mm and height above base is 4.00mm.
fence


#2

You will want to rinse and cure with supports on or it will warp all over the place during cure.


#3

Be VERY careful during wash and post cure that you don’t break it, personally, I have never had any luck with very thin sections like that. They print fine, but they tend to warp very soon after removing the supports. I have had some luck using a heat gun and heavy books to get warped parts flat again,but it’s a bit hit and miss.


#4

so iti is impossible to detach this from support :smiley: maybe some high speed micro circular blade :smiley:


#5

A Dremel with a small cutting wheel works pretty good.


#6

I’d also try with a dremel and a cutting wheel, as suggested. Alternatively you could try cutting the supports a few millimeters before the parts and then just file / grind the remaining material.


#7

Mine print perfectly too, cure perfectly but over time warp. I’m using a heat gun and steel bench blocks, to reshape,but given time they warp again, thats with the white. I wasnt having this problem with the clear. I’m going back to clear for now. Wonder what the new clear will be like?


#8

Thinner the part the quicker it warps if it sits in the IPA. Shouldn’t need much more than a minute or two of swishing and a final rinse on super thin parts. Then let them dry/cure before removing supports.


#9

I’ve found that, for me, it’s best to wash the parts in IPA then Magic 7 and finally water. I then let them dry and remove the supports. I’ve gone to .040" supports. Then I put in the UV (sanitize) oven to harden.


#10

I just ordered some of the Magic 7 but haven’t tried it yet. Heard good things about it.

I usually use .040 supports for major features and then do clean up layer by layer with the smallest possible. If the model is really beefy then I scale the larger supports a bit.


#11

I don’t see that piece turning out well, it’s too thin, even if you get the supports off without breaking it the parts will likely be warped or will soon warp after removing supports.


#12

I agree this seems like more of a job for lazer cutting


#13

i am not sure laser cutting can handle 0,1-0,2 mm :slight_smile:


#14

Get yourself a “hot knife”. Basically an Xacto blade stuck on the end of a soldering iron. That will cut through the resin like, well, a hot knife through butter.


#15

creative creative I like! :slight_smile: I will put razer blade on iron soldering even better :smiley: Hope I wont breathe toxic cloud :smiley:


#16

I’d suggest you to buy God Hand cutters for such delicate parts. I work mostly in H0 scale parts (1:87) and they are just wonderful to use. It doesn’t bend the part when it cuts. They are a bit expensive though (50$ on ebay from Japan) but they are worth every penny.


#17

I’ve been looking about getting a pair of God Hand cutters but it seems the market is flooded with some practically identical knockoffs that break too easily :frowning:
Damnit.


#18

I’ve bought this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/God-hand-Ultimate-Nipper-5-0-plastic-model-tool-GH-SPN-120/202221853294?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

They seem legit. Came from Japan and look great. Original manufacturer won’t sell to outside of Japan from their web site.


#19

This review ain’t lookin’ cool :frowning:


#20

by printing it in parallel to the support raft, you will find it nearly impossible to cut free because something has got to give… and the thinnest section will give before the thicker raft or supports.

To use a 3D printer for this kind of part you should model the latticework as a RELIEF embossed proud of a solid flat plane ( or a curved plane if needed )- then pour silicone rubber on top. this results in a flat mold with a shallow cavity into which you can pour a urethane resin- which is vastly less brittle than any of the high resolution print media.

Model it as a repeating pattern, and the single print and silicone mold can produce hundreds of these far cheaper than 3D printing all of them.