Potential Form2 owner with questions

Hello guys and gals,
I am a veteran in FDM 3D printing, and considering purchasing the Form2.
I do have plenty of questions but i have read that the Formlabs forums are very resourceful and that people are friendly and helpful.
I am an engineer and i have the following questions that would determine if the Form2 would fit my needs.

1- Can models be drilled and tapped with threads for bolts and screws after they are cured completely? (Are models hard enough like FDM models to be drilled and tapped?)
2- As far as curing goes, is it a good idea to buy a small UV oven and place the models in after cleaning for curing? If so how long is a good amount of time for curing would i need to leave the model in the UV oven?
3- After the model is fully cured, can it be placed in the sun? If not what would happen beside discoloration?
4- Do i need to buy a build platform for each color or just a tray for each color?
5- After the printer finished printing a model, how does the model feel? would if be somewhat soft and need careful attention until cured or does it come out of the printer solid?
6- What type of cleaner liquid can i use to clean the model after printing? (what type of alcohol, or any alternative to alcohol?)

Thank you so much for your time answering my questions and i look forward to be an owner of a Form2.

Hi Jamil,

  1. Yes. Check out this awesome article by our design engineer @JasonLivingston
  2. You can find suggestions for post-curing hardware and recommended times here. Usually, I use the sun to post-cure.
  3. Parts will get more brittle in the sun, but in my experience, it’s not by much. Our new clear formulation (V3) is more color stable than previous versions.
  4. No. You can use the same build platform. Just wipe it off with a paper towel (and some IPA if needed)
  5. Generally it comes out of the printer solid. If you’re using castable resin, the parts may come out soft before post curing.
  6. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), 90% of higher. More info here.
  1. We have drilled and tapped some of our models. You can also directly print threads. Don’t expect a lot of strength though.
  2. You can use sunlight to cure or a uv lamp or “oven”. We have found high power uv leds to work quite well. Cure time depends on your part. Our 100 watt uv stage light cures most things in an hour or less. (We use a mixed resin that affects cure time.)
  3. If your model will spend much time in the sun you should paint it with a uv blocking paint or clear coat.
    It will continue to cure and become brittle if not.
  4. You can use the same build platform no problem. If you need to start a second print faster then a second build platform would be helpful in that you wouldn’t have to wait until you cleaned the first one.
  5. The model is slightly soft with a “slimy” feel, but it is pretty solid. We have not used tough much yet, but it was “spongy”.
  6. We use isopropyl alcohol. Some people use water in between vats. Also there is a “yellow” product that I don’t remember the name of some members have had luck with.

Yellow Magic. Haven’t used it personally, so someone else will need to chime in on this.

A recent thread (hah!) here Formula SAE Electric Low Voltage Electronics Boxes describes how to add press-in threaded inserts to add metal threads to printed parts. That’s another great alternative to tapping threads.

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I drilled and tapped 4 holes in each (the other 2 are holding the part to the rim) 5 of them have been on the truck for almost a year with no clear coat. They are not brittle and when I wash them off, they look great. Well, even muddy they look great.

IMG_2544 by MMDR Designs, on Flickr

DSC_0911 by MMDR Designs, on Flickr



We also use epoxy to hold small threaded inserts in place.

Thank you all for the information and the answers. I have placed my order for the Form 2 last night, and i am looking forward to receive it and be part of the community.
Please know that your contribution and answers convinced me to purchase this printer.

Mean while as i wait for the printer, what do you recommend i buy and have additional to the printer and the kit it comes with (i also purchased an extra resin and tank).


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I will suggest using acetone over IPA. Much cheaper, cleans just as well in less time.

Now I say that from personal experience on a limited number of parts, but here’s the overview:

  • Ok for parts with no small features that will break off (i remove all the supports from my models before putting into the bath)
  • Wipe your prints down with a paper towel to get as much liquid resin off as possible so you don’t contaminate the acetone bath. (the more liquid resin you get off, the longer your acetone will last, once it gets cloudy i dump it for a fresh batch)
  • Shake/Slosh around for about 1-2mins in acetone bucket, then immediately wash off under water and scrub with a soft brush (i used a tooth brush)
  • Spray off parts with compressed air and let fully cure in the sun

One thing i have found is even with IPA, you do not need to let parts soak for 10mins like FLabs suggests, I drop them in and slosh around for 2-5mins and have fantastic results.

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Thanks a bunch for the suggestions. How do you dispose of the Acetone? or IPA for that matter? just curious!

We use a vibrating tumbler with IPA for ours. (We buy it in 55 gal drums for other processes.)
Usually good in about 3 min’s.
Then blow off with low pressure air and cure under a UV light.

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