Thanks for sharing!! looks nice and promising!
@DKirch I have a question. I know this is meant more for jewellers but it’s advertised as super precise with minimal expansion during burn out. I am wondering why do you still advise the purple Castable wax to be used for dental copings.
Also if any dental technician has enough money and will to try it out please let me know how it goes.
Castable Wax 40 Resin was specifically formulated with jewelry investment and applications in mind. In order to develop the best casting resin for jewelers, we have not validated this resin for dental part accuracy. However, as a stiffer resin with the highest available accuracy, Castable Wax Resin remains our best solution for dental applications, and has been qualified for use with dental (phosphate) investment molds.
Yeah … our laboratory is focused on high precision and accuracy. We are experiencing some issues with press ceramics when using Castable Wax. That’s why I was intrigued when I heard the new resin has double the amount of wax infiltrated. I think that would help a lot with burn out since the thermal expansion of burning resin wouldn’t damage the investment material near the margin. In comparison a very popular dental resin caled Pi-Ku-Plast has a special property of collapsing/contracting under heat so it does not damage the investment compared to other resins. I guess I will have to wait and see if anyone has any good results in the dental field with this one. Until then I am sticking with Castable Wax, or more manual/conventional methods for really precise work.
I would love to get a FL resin that actually works in my FL2. Problem is, both here and on the FB group, no actual user has posted ANYTHING about how well this casts. “I got some and I’m gonna try it” is about as far as it goes.
Not buying any FL resins that don’t work, aren’t proven to work, and have been reviewed to work. We got burned righteously by the bunk purple “castable”. I will wait and use my X-10.
I have printed the castable 40 and it prints great. I’ve noticed that anything in .35mm- .40mm in thickness doesn’t print perfectly. Have not had issues this .50mm or thicker. It’s cast amazingly well. I was more that displeased this castable wax but castable 40 is many times better at casting. Also be gentle with prints, they are soft… really soft… I’ve also printed with bluecast x10 and use the grey v4 setting. Flawless prints with any file I’ve used, needless to say, it cast amazingly.
Which one do you prefer? Blue cast or the new 40?
It would be interesting to see the results of printing and casting.
I would love to see what the under side of your prints, where the supports attach. Also is there any sign of the dreaded ‘layer shift’ issue?
Still need to test both products more.
No preference yet, but will update in a few weeks and 10+ castings to see where the advantages and disadvantages are for both.
I did have shift lines with the castable 40 in one design, I say design because all 3 prints of that particular design had them. I’m assuming that it happened because of lack of supports. Castable 40 is very soft and because of this as the print gets long it’s prone to flex? At least that’s what I assume. I will post pictures.
@DKirch, I can’t get the video to play. I’ve used both Safari and Chrome. On Safari, it never loads…the status doohickey just keeps going round and round. On Chrome, it has a loud popping noise.
Is anyone else having issues viewing the session?
I was able to view it on my iPhone, but had to register again.
I’m sorry to hear that! Lemme dig around a little bit and worst-case scenario I’ll figure out a way to get the video to you directly.
Thanks, @DKirch! I was watching it on my phone…great info. Super psyched to see the collaborative efforts with Rio and GIA, and it sounds like @PatrickDiggins has brought a lot of real-world expertise to the Formlabs jewelry team. I’m very thankful for all that you guys do!
I usually reformat the burnout schedule and post it on the forum to make it easier to program into my kiln. I don’t know about all burnout kilns, but my Paragon kilns want a ramp speed in degrees per hour, the “arrive” temperature, and hold. This is the schedule from the Castable Wax 40 handout for FLCW4001 V1 reformatted in that type of layout.
Adjust as necessary for your preferred burnout. This is not an “official” Formlabs chart, but is based on the information in their chart with NO changes to the schedule. One other thing…it says “Up to 120 minutes” for the final hold. I always hold this as “at least 120 minutes.”
Here is one example of the shifting that occurs when enough supports are not placed. Also i highly recommend that you use the full raft option. I had 1 print support come off the platform with the mini raft option.
@Kdeezy619 here is an example of Bluecast X10. The print quality is outstanding. I have had 1 instance where the print came off the platform. I bought the primer from bluecast and it has fixed the issue. Burnout is outstanding using Prestige Optima investment.
Have you cast these yet? I have both Bluecast and Castable Wax 40, but looking forward to the Formlabs tank/cartridge ease of use.
I’m a master of minimalist support structures, but I understand Castable Wax 40 does better with more supports, but that they are easier to remove. I’ve gotten all of my questions answered quickly, so thanks @Formlabs for all of the supporting info and webinars. Super helpful!
I"m printing in gray today, so waiting for that to finish. I accidentally printed at a 160µ setting this morning…I didn’t even know my printer had that setting. Did you guys see that you can now fill the build platform with the “Max” function in Preform? Is that new?