Has anyone tried B9 Yellow Resin on Form 2?

Has anyone tried using B9 Yellow Resin on the Form2? It gives me phenomenal results on my Solus printer, significantly more consistent than the results that I get with Castable V2 on my Form2.

If so does anyone know the ideal settings for it, I know that it isn’t officially supported but was wondering if anyone had any experience making it work. For example I’ve in the past successfully printed Makerjuice Waxcast on the Form2 using Castable V1 25 Micron settings, and on the Solus its about 51.5% the exposure time of the B9 Yellow on Solus

I expect that it should be possible to work on a Form2 because its mechanism is very similar to the B9 with its slide

I remember reading before that placing an item over itself in Preform results in double exposure of the item is this still how it operates? Example I place the same item over itself in preform to get it to double expose the settings that work for Waxcast since preform has yet to allow for custom exposure times.

Asking mostly because Yellow gives me more consistent printing and casting results from the other printer, while Formlabs Castable V2 seems to work some times and other times smaller holes get filled in or prongs close to each other fuse, which did not seem to happen for Castable V1 and doesn’t happen for B9 Yellow.

Thanks for any help


B9 Yellow resin?
Have not worked with it but I hear that it is great with high details.

I like my Form 1+ and the new castable 02 resin form Formlabs.
It would be nice to be able to use B9 Yellow.
I think some models may be better on Formblabs castable 02 and others better using b9 yellow.
It would be nice to have that choice.

I personally like my Formlabs 1+ ( my “Sassy Monkey” ) because it is easy to use.
I mostly like my “Sassy Monkey” because I just Import the file, put it in position and click print.
I don’t have to deal with the frustrations of calibrating the machine.

I think a friend of mine may have that resin. I will check so I can experiment and let you know.

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I have used B9C dental (which is yellow-ish) on my Form1+.
Tried different settings. All printed at 50 microns.
The best was Grey 01 which printed perfectly. Perhaps you can try a similar setting to that on the Form2.
Did Clear 01 as well but seemed too strong as they were a pain to remove so I guess there was overcompression. Some parts were not fully exposed and failed.

The surface finish on B9C resin is really smooth compared to even Formlab resin.
Also support point size should be larger. I used 1.0mm.


Thanks for sharing your experience.

I like castable 02 and I think that if mix with a resin that has
fast exposure time it should work better on fine details.
That is what I am understanding from the way different resins work.

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HI all, @Evert_Gonzalez @aj_edi,
Just received my first flask of Yellow B9 Resin.
I want to give it a try on my Form2.
How should I install the settings?
What do you guys use?

Thanks for sharing.


Hi @Nielsvandooren,
I think you can try the suggestions I mentioned before (Grey01 ). Also use larger point size ~1.0mm.
I didn’t try WhiteV1 but that could be a good trial since it’s the weakest.
I had good results when printing models with even slices but if the slices has large surface area (for example if you have a solid ball, it would fail around the centre of the ball) , it failed so probably try to have your model as vertical as you can rather than flat.
I stopped testing with the B9C yellow resin in a long while though so others might have a better idea.
All the best!

Thanks @aj_edi,

How do you set the printer to the Grey01?

When you open PreForm, there is a pop up menu where you can select the print settings (resin type and print layer 100microns etc) then click OK. Then load the STL/OBJ file and set the supports. location and send to printer.
Use open mode on the printer touch screen. The laser settings should follow your selection in PreForm.
When you change the print settings, you need to redo the supports etc as I believe the algorithm is different.
You can customise all this settings in Form1+ but in Form2 you have to try and error on what’s available.

I’ve tried:

  • Grey V2
  • Black V2
  • Castable V1 and V2

None of the prints stick to the surface so far…
I’ve also tried lowering the Z axis minus 1.0mm.
Didn’t help either.

Any last tips?


Hi Niels,

I am not sure if printing in Form1+ made a difference but below are the settings that I used.
Note that not all turn out well but I didn’t have issues of prints sticking to platform.
I also printed simple bending test plates first before doing dental models.
I used:
-Clear 01
-Grey 01
-1.5 mm support density
-1.0 mm point size
-50micron layer. I didn’t try with 100 micron because I followed the suggestions on the bottle.

I haven’t opened the B9C forum in a long while but there might be some info there as well?
All the best.

Hi aj_edi, no info on the b9 forum. Was hoping for some insights and experiences on the Form2.
No luck so far printing on my form 2
will keep you posted

I have a lot of other prints I have to run at the moment. Probably would take 2 weeks.
Once that is over, I might give the resin a go using the Form2.
Hope it works out for you.


Are you filtering the resin from the tank after each print failure?

Before you lowered the Z-Axis offset, did anything at all stick to the build plate? Even one or two layers?

After you lowered the Z-Axis offset by 1mm, did you notice any more sticking to the build plate? Where exactly does the print fail: first layer, the raft, supports, or part?


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So far Printing in the B9R4 resin:
Not actual paintstrainer filtering, but carefully inspecting and swiping trough the tank.

  1. Print in grey mode: first 2-5? layers sticked to the build plate. fell of afterwards
  2. Print in castable mode: first 2-5? layers sticked to the build plate. fell of afterwards
  3. Print in grey mode with lowered Z-axis (-1mm) first 2-5? layers sticked to the build plate. fell of afterwards
  4. Print in Black mode normal: first 2-5? layers sticked to the build plate. fell of afterwards
  5. Print in Black mode lowered z-axis (-1mm) first 2-5? layers sticked to the build plate. fell of afterwards
  6. Print in Black mode higher z-axis (+0.5mm) first 2-5? layers sticked to the build plate. fell of afterwards

Don’t know what’s going wrong…

Thanks for all the help

Give Tough or Flex profiles a try.

Thanks for the information, that is very helpful when troubleshooting.

In my limited experience, two things come to mind:

  1. I’m sure that any Formlabs employee, or any advanced Form user, will tell you that you should probably be filtering your resin after every fail. It’s crazy what can be left behind. Once you do it a few times, it really doesn’t take that long. Is this causing your problem? Probably not, but good to rule out variables.

  2. Any time there is a build plate adhesion issue, I believe you are looking at a Z-Axis offset / compression issue, so again in my humble opinion, I would probably focus on that.

When you say that the first 2-5 layers stick, but then fell off afterwards, do you mean that the rest of the part did not adhere to the first 2-5 layers? Or are you saying that somewhere during the print job, even the first 2-5 layers that were originally adhered, become loose and fell off?

Cheers! I bet we can figure this out.


Thanks for your help @DavidRosenfeld and @yoderkl,

I actually never ‘see’ the 2-5 layers sticking to the building plate because the plate is lowered deep in the resin when printing these first layers. After 1 hour the printer finishes and I open it up to find a thin layer sticking to the base of the resin tank. I then pick it out using the twizzers from form2.
I carefully swipe the wiper from left to right to check for more ‘floating pieces’. Never detected any other.
Last week cleared all the resin from the tank to store it and give BlueCast a try. Was really disappointed that this 200€ resin didn’t work in my form2.

So coming back at your question Yoderkl, I think the print might have never been attached to the building platform after all.



Great feedback.

My guess is that if, after the print has finished, there is literally nothing on the build plate (use your scraper directly on the build plate to see if there is a very thin layer or two adhered) then you definitely need to drop your Z-Axis offset.

Can you please verify that there is absolutely nothing cured to the build plate after a print and report back?

Also, it is my understanding that lowering the Z-Axis offset can be a bit dangerous so you have to be careful when adjusting this setting. I usually decrease the offset by 0.1mm or 0.2mm at a time. You said that you tried printing at a -1.0mm offset, if I were you, I would thoroughly clean the tank and the wiper, filter the resin through a paint strainer, and try this lowered offset again. If it fails, re-filter the resin, clean off the build plate of any partially cured resin, and drop the Z-Axis another 0.1mm. I would keep on doing this until I got at very least, a full raft adhered to the build plate. The more you decrease the offset, the more attention I would pay to the printer during the actual print (in case you hear a crack or something) so you could abort if necessary.

The piece that you fish out with tweezers, is it fully cured, bendy, or gel-like?

Sorry that it took me a while to test it on my Form2.
I printed the butterfly successfully using White Version 1 at 50micron setting on the Form2 (Open Mode)
The support was 1mm density and 0.6 point size.
Attached is the outcome.

This was using an old tank where I drained the black Formlabs resin and wiped clean the PDMS with IPA and it still printed fine.
Hope you managed to work it out!


Hi @aj_edi,
Very very cool that you did this!
I am wondering what might have went wrong in my case…
I couldn’t get the base layers to stick to the building platform.

Did you also try printing a ring like model, that is positioned more ‘vertically’?
I just ordered another tank and building platform to start testing with the Yellow resin again.
I will also order a special sticky spray from the @BlueCat guys.
Maybe that can also do the trick.