Eyeglasses

It would seem that once dry and not exuding VOCs the resin would ok but as Randy says it would be a good idea to confirm this with FL or a chemist.

Look nice. When I am attaching hardware or need to make the part semi flexible to prevent chipping or cracking I use a heat gun on it. When cool the parts will return to their original properties. No need to over heat and you can tell when it is soft enough without burning. This might be a little safer to tap threads, attach small rivets etc.

Expect a “Visit” from the Luxottica Men in Black any time now.

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The end result looks neat.

In my case I got spring loaded hinges that require no rivets. I got CAD drawing from manufacturer, so was able to subtract hinge cutout from my design. I also modeled screw holes sized to screw inner dimension (less thread) so they would grip. I’ll try to post some hinge pix later.

A new 3D printer that uses plastic colored pellets can make the frames and the lenses.

Those are way cool. I love the clear just translucent. Have discovered you can easily stain it with alcohol inks and it retains its transparency if you thin them down. I’ve found the clear kinda flexable, do you think it will stand up to use?

I have used the sunglasses since May. The temples have splayed out a bit, and I have to use a croaky to keep them secure during activity (I mainly use for golf, tennis, running, etc.). I printed the temples on the most recent pair (in the photo) 1.5 mm thicker in the hopes that they would remain more rigid. So far, so good, but only a week. I could go to hard resin, but then I would have to find some acceptable way to color them because primer gray is not the color I want my eyeglasses.

I’ve been looking at post cure dying in IPA solution using dyes mentioned on this forum. I will do some experiments for next print.

PS, I did ask FL for their input regarding use close to skin. They said the expected: In short, cured resin should be safe, but has not been tested, therefore they cannot recommend it. I did look in detail at the MSDS, and the main issue with resin skin contact is inflammation. None of the ingredients are carcinogenic. So, I think I will keep using unless/until I get an inflammation or skin reaction. I do plan to get transparent adhesive silicone sheets I can put on the major areas of skin contact. If that works well, I will post.

The plastic once fully cured should be safe but there is probably someone out there that has an allergy.
There might be a coating you could put on them that would make it safer and maybe even protect the plastic from continually curing under uv. Not sure where to look for that though.

For stiffness and resilience I have used piano wire inserted into long, thin parts with much success. I had to experiment with the right size cavity, but worked well. A soldering iron works well for inserting shorter rods, or nut inserts, but not great for long rods.

Brilliant! I use piano wire for spring pins for my jewelry…thx.

The eye glass adjuster the comes to our factory uses a shallow pan of sand that rests on a hot plat to soften the frames for minute adjustments. This could help you fit up too.

These shapes would be easy enough to recast in urethane. You’d need a pressure pot and air compressor. Probably want to use clear silicone for the mold, and pigmented urethane for the casting. You could even make the mold hold all three pieces at once, so each pour would be a full set of parts.

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Smooth-On has an rtv silicone that doesn’t require degassing. I have used it with cold casting but you need to pour it slowly. Simple tapping of the contianer helps. A cold mold 2 part putty silicone might also work. You can make a bed with one layer, set your part in, brush on some mica powder on the cured half then build the rest of the mold with another layer of silicone. You should have some sort of mold frame. This could be wood or metal, nothing special for the cold mold but as long as you can press it down to make sure you have no gaps and all details are captured. Open box and use a board that can fit inside that you can put pressure on and toss some weights should do the trick.

When I did some cold casting with the RTV, my frame was a cheap steel baking pan. Cost less than a dollar at Wal-Mart.

I was just going to recommend this. 3d printing is perfect for prototyping but it’s not ideal for a finished product. Use that part you made to cast that baby!

Castin Craft Clear would give you a nice transparent frame :slight_smile:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/castincraft-clear-polyester-casting-resin/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=33520-1003&gclid=Cj0KEQjw_qW9BRCcv-Xc5Jn-26gBEiQAM-iJha4B2hm7KJjQZHkLyxaHXRvdh6kwCuSVKUm0AFHFOlMaAkfb8P8HAQ

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will indeed try the piano wire. I appreciate that casting will give me a broader range of materials and colors. Since I am not making in volume (only for myself) not sure I want to add a whole additional process (including tools and materials) to my already limited workspace. I may have to go there if I cannot get dying to work to my liking.

Regarding cured resin contact with skin, I bought these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XLZTVA6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and applied to temples around the ears and nose contact point. Serves 2 purposes: it absolutely eliminates sliding around!!!, and it minimizes skin/cured resin contact - even though I was not terribly concerned about that.

Owwwh those look very useful!

Good job on the hinges! The materials used do vary, the newer material are cheaper in price and quality. Plastics used on eyeglasses that have more substance is called Zyl and the temples usually have a wire running thru them to add adjust-ability and firmness, the wire is about as thick as a coat hanger. Frames made of Zyl are heatable and resilient, we heat the frame to snap in the lenses and the material takes the contours and cools down, locking the lenses inside the frame, there are safety consequences to loose lenses. We use hot air or a heating pan with table salt or glass beads to stretch and adjust frames.

You can use RIT dye heated to just below boiling to color your clear frames. The material will probably absorb into the frames. It is more of a translucent coloring but it is a nice and cheap way to get a little more diversity. Better quality frames have a clear frame protective coating to keep the material looking new, kind of like a clear coat on your car. The coating will help preserve your coloring and lock in any leaching the materials you are using.

This is the future, people will down load frames designs and print out frames saving lots of money, Prada anyone?

One the other users has been changing the color of the resins, thought you might want to check it out for your frames.