Not sure how it fares with FormLabs resins, but over the year i’ve come to realize that you can wash MakerJuice resin relatively well with just hot water. It has to be fairly hot, but it reduces the surfaces tension and makes the resin less viscous, so you can just rinse it off.
The only problem is - where and how to do it. Obviously, doing it in the sink is not very nice for the environment nor for your plumbing (plus it stinks).
Ok… Thanks to all for advise, i will not clean it with IPA inside…
I’d be interested to hear how well that works! Also maybe the G5 since it is supposed to be easier to apply etc.
Please do share your results!
Just ordered some and will give it a try. Have to instal a new mirror and new tanks ordered, so perfect time to try something new. After 7 tanks killed, I’ll have a pretty good idea if it suits for me 
Ok don’t shoot me here -I’ve not even got my printer yet so am a total noob. Are you saying you put the RainX / Driscoll Ultra 4 onto the INSIDE of the tank before pouring in the resin, using it to keep the silicone layer nicely conditioned? I believe you are but want to check this before I go using any products on the wrong surfaces.
I am getting into 3D printing but have been casting using silicone moulds for years, I use mold (mould as we spell it in the UK) release for my silicone moulds, mine is called Ease Release 400, they do a 200 grade too which gives a matte finish, the 400 is used for a glossy finish so I’m assuming that would be better in an optical sense. I’m wondering if that would do the same job as the RainX/Ultra 4. I looked it up and it appears the same but I’m not sure if Ease-Release has solvents in it, which might affect the resin and the tank.
Oh, and I found a UK supplier of the Driscoll Ultra4, they offer one for epoxy resins and one for polyester, link here: http://www.mouldlife.net/parfilm-epoxy-1227-p.asp
I would love to see someone show the process of how they applied the Rain X to the layer. I would be pretty fearful of streaks but I am not sure how it reacts with the PDMS layer… I am tempted to try this as well on a take just for the fun of it.
Well, since the layer degrades at such a rapid rate anyway, why not just test on a fairly cloudy tank before resurfacing it?
@Kelly_Sealey ER400 has Dichloromonofluoroethane as it’s solvent. However, this is often used on silicone molds as you state, and might be great. I’d beinterested in your findings. I use ER205 typically myself, out of habit mostly… It works
As far as matt vs gloss, I’m not that would matter very much in an interlayer location.
Thanks @ChristopherBarr, that’s reassuring info.
@Thomas_Judy I have a habit of photographing pretty much everything I do so if I give that a go at any point I’ll be sure to share (hopefully not for a while as the machine I’m buying has a couple of tanks I can use to get started).
but I had understood that RainX its applied on the bottom glass, not in the PDMS Slayer…
I would thank you too
Yeah I am a little confused as well to which layer it gets applied to which is why I like pictures lol I am a metals engineer and slowly learning this whole plastics thing so I understood the RainX to act as a barrier to assist with the wear and tear of the peel process and help extend the life of the PDMS layer on the inside of the tank… but I will be honest I have no damn clue anymore lol I had a tank that had a failed print in one of the corners that I have been running and just emptied and cleaned the tank out to run this test. To which I applied the Rain X to the inside, hopefully it dose not kill the tank but I guess I will have to wait and see.
I applied the Rain-X to a used tray over the PDMS (inside the tray) per the mfg.'s instructions: one coat - let it haze - apply second coat - let it haze - buff it off. I used a double layered folded pec-pad to apply it and buff it off. It was a little smeary, streaky, and hazy after wiping the two coats off as I didn’t want to aggravate the PDMS layer too much but overall pretty clear. The result, I completed two big prints perfectly! I noticed a BIG difference when remixing the resin in the tray. I use a plastic ID card and the gray tinted resin just beads off and repels beautifully over the PDMS. For now, I’m SOLD!
That is very interesting. Can you post some photos of the resin tank with the rainx applied and your prints?
Also have you tested printing a large item in the same spot to see if it protects against the pdms getting foggy?
Shots of the “test” tank now are useless as it is full of resin. However, I did just replace the PDMS in 5 trays this week and today is day four. I’ll be coating each one with Rain-X and take some shots later today.
Ohh OK… Thanks for explanation… I was a little confused…
Ok. I was more meticulous this time and was not able to get rid of streaking from the rain-x. Also, I do not recommend using Pec-Pads after all. The PDMS layer’s friction pulled off hundreds of fibers from the pads and they were spread all over the surface. Instead, I tried using a spreader and sponge applicator. The sponge applicator worked well and I was able to get uniform coverage. I ran into problems because I think I waited too long after applying the second coat. I totally forgot about my trays and went back about two hours later. I applied a bit of Rain-x and with the front of the tray facing me, I lifted the back of the tray at about a 45 degree angle and ran a plastic spreader top to bottom, left to right over the PDMS. I was able to get the PDMS mostly clear, however I still had streaks and still got them. The instructions say use a mist of water but that just made things worse although it did bead off very nicely.
So here’s what I’ve learned thus far…forget the PecPads, sponge/swirl it on, don’t wait too long after it hazes up the second time, and finally find some way of getting a clear finish. Some kind of squeegee method may work. Thoughts???
With the mold-release spray I was able to get rid of the haze by just running my finger back and forth across the PDMS. It worked wonders for clarity. I didn’t worry about some very light streaking because there is no distance between the resin and the surface, so if the light bends a tiny bit I figured there would be zero effect on the print.
Plus when I mixed the resin with the scraper for the first time it eliminated the streaks.
OK, I am running a print now that covers nearly the entire surface of the build platform. Here are pics showing the steps I took.
I placed a few drops of Rain-X on the PDMS layer
Here is where I used a folded Pec-Pad. Next time it will be a sponge applicator as the PPad left behind fibers.
Here you can see the Rain-X hazed up.
This time I applied the Rain-X to the Pec-Pad. Next time I’ll squeegee the second coat on with a spreader…
…Like this
After second coat…
So now this tray is running a print. More to follow…
@Ralph_Roberts Thanks a lot for tips and Tutorial… 
Thanks for sharing your experience, Ralph. Let us know how that print comes out, curious to see if the smears cause any issues.