Deeper laser gluing/curing discussion


#21

Happy to try and find some values tomorrow. Most are amazon/Chinese post products, but I believe we have some test gear in house for approximating light output (and a laser output measurement wand is on my list)


#22

the longest time? I dunno- I have lazed 10 seconds on and 2 or 3 off for a full minute lots of times.

It does not appear to harm the resin.- but then I do not hold the laser in any one spot for too long- if its deep resin I will try to hold the laser so the focal point is at the bottom of the puddle and the spot at the surface is more diffuse and go back and forth curing the bottom of the puddle and then moving the laser focus a little shallower to fully cure resin over that… but with any pigmented resins I just do it in very thin layers separately applied and cured.

Durable is pretty clear when liquid and you can See it cloud as it cures. With the laser pen you don’t have that fine a control and so hand lased resin areas vary in color and opacity a little- they are not gonna match the Form2 cured material exactly.


#23

I come to know that wood glue is pretty useful, but you said its week:sweat:
Can you share your experience with wood glue?

Before judge wood glue I may request you to see the article from Ireviewtools An informative article on wood glue


#24

Wood glue? Don’t recall ever using wood glue on a resin print (or PVA as it’s also called) because it will not bond at all to the resin. Wood glue ideally needs a ‘fiber’ to soak into. If you have two flat, large surfaces, then it might a hold a bit but I see no good reason to use it for prints.

Since I last posted in this thread, I’ve done a fair bit of testing using various adhesives. So far, aside from lasering resin in layers, the hands-down strongest stuff I’ve come across is “JB Weld Plastic BONDER” for gluing resins. (Note: NOT “plastic welder” but “bonder”.) It stays just slightly, slightly flexible when cured, and can be sanded.