I think a few others have raised this to no response, so I will again - I’ve been using Rigid 4000 to print parts of a musical instrument, with great and consistent results, but painting them is an irritating extra step that produces suboptimal results. If I could just add some of the dye from the color kit into the Rigid resin, it would solve all my problems. I’ve used the normal color kit resin before, but the accuracy was pretty poor and I couldn’t get the parts to fit within tolerance.
Has anyone tried seeing if they can get away with this? I don’t need perfect material properties, just for it to survive long enough to cure in the Form Cure, and for the two parts to fit together.
In any event, I’ll try it when I start running low on resin but wanted to check here first. I’ve just had such trouble putting final finish on these parts; no dye will stick to them, even when I left it in a bottle of india ink for a month, and even airbrushing doesn’t produce a result that looks natural.
I’ve tried that with Rigid 10k once but it wasn’t a good experience. A few anomalies when printing (especially in side walls that once in a while would shift enough to be noticed and the the color, using recommended amount of dye, was just a fade of what it should be.
While I use Rigid 4000 everyday, I never tried it due to my experience with 10k. While both are different in many aspects they share some common characteristics so I won’t risk it.
Keep in mind that dying the resin should be made in the cartdrige and not the tank (as new resin would dilute the color) which means that you’ll need at least a tank full and later you’d have to continue to use it or toss away the dyed resin. I tried to keep the dyed 10k and diluting it with new resin but that was taking forever and I still had some percentage of the fainted color I used.
Regarding coloring it a spray paint makes the process easy and fast (and more accurate) so that’s what I do to keep it faithful in terms of part quality and color accuracy.