I didn’t see this colour too
we will see
maybe use 25 mc and change the angle little bit.
maybe add single supports
what do you think?
Sometimes I try in 4-5 different angles the prints
please try and post results if you are willing to do a try
maybe you could open new topic
I’m interested in your progress. I had the same issue and drilled wholes with carbide drills
I suspect if you tilt it higher and use 25 micron better chance to succeed
try 45 degrees
I just want to write a resume:
No matter how you try to do the best design, and cure the print properly- if you do not control casting process,
so result reminds me lotto game. In some way- unpredictable.
I don’t do casting and do not control burnout schedule.
The only way (for companies which use outsource casting service)
is to find a person/company who/which is willing to be opened
for new technology and to try make something new.
I think this topic has been exhausted on some level.
thank you all for your attention and your perception
all the best
I have found, after doing some trouble shooting, that from straight up and down on the Z axis rotating the piece -25 degrees, towards the Y axis I get the best results. Originally, I was orienting my pieces like you are and the detail was just blurring together. I also agree with PeterG, you should try to print them at .25 microns. Formlabs had a webinar a month or two ago about the Form 2 and it explained a lot of these things for me.
I have put months and months of work into finding the correct burn-out schedule and the correct plaster, Casting with resin is much harder than with wax. Wax is forgiving - resin is not. everything has to be spot-on when casting with resin. Times, temperatures, even the temperature of the water and powder are critical. Its taking over twice as long with Castable resin to do a reliable repeatable cast than it does with wax. I can understand those casting companies that just say no because the reality is that resin is much more time consuming and difficult to cast.
Thanks for sharing your thought.
My Idea was to buy machine, print, send casting company, polish+set the gemstones.= everyone is happy.
Now from experience I think some ways are possible:
- to take care of casting by ourselves- because casting companies say no- as you said
to learn art of casting next thing to experience
Hillzzz, You are in good position having years of experience in this field and all of you who practice that.
so here cost of this technology rises for casting line of doing inhouse production . To do everything in one place
But having new casting line does not mean that everything will go smoothly, Must learn casting now.
different pattern group = different style of casting I think. You know it the best.
1a. cooperation with casting company which will do separate process = special fee
because of separate burnout overn using only for one flask. it is a kind of solution
the best curing to cast anywhere - I am wondering if this is possible.
Haven’t received 2 prints yet.
they are doing (casting company) just according to their process. not recommended. I am curious about the result.
If succesfull- after curing this way can try to cast anyhere (maybe)
I think this week will receive them.
(by Inventor side) to find really good casting resin/or whatever: resin-wax - for easy burnout process.
colour can be even pink or colourless- I don’t care
just friendly to the burnout process and curing during printing and after-printing curing
to buy printing machine muuuch more expensive for blue wax. Than just print and cast. Just cost of printer is differnet.
maybe there are some more points.
I have plenty of designs 3D, so this printer wanted to be my solution for lower cost of printing
and casting them somewhere/anywhere.
That’s why decided for purchase this printer.
Hillzzz, I really thought that this machine is properly prepared for easy casting its prints anywhere.
dental and jewellery industry would be very happy of easy casting with formlabs’ prints
Can you guys explain how you are making or where you are buying the high power uv optionts that you are using?
These seem to work best: 36 Watt UV Nail Lamp Dryer.
People are using these UV Light Strips, but seem to degrade pretty fast from either the heat or reflected UV light so I wouldn’t recommend them - get two or three nail dryers instead.
Also get a small turntable to even out the light.
You can use a cardboard box lined with tinfoil, or I just use a white plastic bucket for the chamber.
what time should the models be under this kind of uv nail lamp dryer?
I want to make you aware of a UV post-curing product my company just announced Sunday that you might be interested in. It was designed to work specifically with Formlabs resins. It is easy to use - turn it on, pick your resin, press run. Time and temperature are set automatically to the ideal settings identified by Formlabs for their popular resins. Or, you can set it manually for more control. See www.wickedshell.com/curebox for more info.
I hope this is of help to you. To be totally transparent, I am the owner of the company that manufactures Curebox. I built this out of necessity to get the most from my Form 2 as an engineer, but decided to make it available to the community simply out of passion.
Forget about nail dryers guys. It just doesn’t work. It looks like it should work, but only looks.
gravity also changes after curing- from my experience 10.5-11 times to 14k gold. but it also depends on post-curing result.
If some blue colour exists, can be abbreviations.
small earrings are transparet within 1 hour.
medium rings 2-2.5h
the thicker items the longer curing is necessary till 4h. very big pedants- 40x60mm1.5 thick - 4-5h
chamber looks nice from outside.
Light bulbs look as form nail dryer. My bulbs all together had ~~48W?
From my experience I excluded special temperature It was useless. After second chamber- excluded.
what is power of Your light source?
how many WATTs?
Can you show results after casting?
how much time to cure a simple ring?
You know curing only for curing function is different from "curing as a proper preparing for jewellery casting"
I am interested in post-curing picture and after casting result.
Could you be so kind to share your results?
it is interesting
sorry i was mistaken
afer a while i think that curing is curing.
If resin cures to transparent form - so it is OK
maybe it is just a matter of fact that casting house should find a way of casting the resin.
As @Hillzzz said resin is much harder to cast that a wax.
Hillzzz, when you cast the resin properly cured, so is the surface always smooth?
The lamps in the Curebox CB-4051 are manufactured by the manufacturer of the nail salon lamps. They are similar, but not mixed frequency like the salon lamps are. They are manufactured for me at 405nm wavelength. They are 9 watts each, so 36 watts total. It is always good from a consistency standpoint to have some level of temperature control. Without active cooling it is necessary to have temperature elevated slightly from nominal, but it doesn’t have to be excessive. Curebox was designed strictly for the purpose of control and consistency. Having said that, my post was a response to Anton’s question about where to buy UV cure equipment. I don’t have jewelry or metal casting experience. Our product is capable of the wavelength, time, and temperature settings identified as ideal by Fomlabs in their post-curing white paper.
I am happy to process a sample, or even several for anyone interested.
it is interesting
Craig Broady of Formlabs stated:
“Resin photo initiators are sensitive to a range of wavelengths in the spectrum. Lasers that emit at 405nm, like the one in the Form 1+, are inexpensive due to widespread use in Bluray players and the like. Using a 390-395nm wavelength cure box (or any cure box in the UVA range –– 400 to 315nm) is good for post curing our resin. I often use this one:”
And here is a post by Formlabs that uses nail dryers:
Easy UV Cure Box for under $30
So either you know something Formlabs doesn’t know, or nail lamps work.