Casting jewellery


#202

How many hours are you curing each side for? Are you seeing the plastic change colors?


#203

@PollyW

It would be my pleasure to process some samples for you. I reached out in an email, but if anyone else is interested, my contact information is on the product website at www.wickedshell.com/curebox

The level of interest from jewelry designers and dentists was totally unexpected. Very welcome, but unexpected.


#204

About an hour each side on something like a 2 mm ladies ring or halo pendant in a small nail light. The plastic is changing colors slightly around the edges but not everywhere. Should I be leaving it until it changes in a uniform way? To the translucent brownish blue color?

I work in a jewelry shop with my brother, and he gets excited to get to casting and pulls the piece out of the UV light even though I suggest we cook it longer. Will a longer, thorough cook improve the burn out and surface finish? Can I insist the resin be cooked to a certain color before it’s cast?

Hopefully, after my brother sees that we can save time on finishing by getting a complete cure he will stop pulling the pieces out before they’re ready!


#205

Hi guys,

if you are interested in fast and accurate casting, you can consider our BlueCast resin.

No postcuring need, no exotic washes, no extra sprues, burnout cycle 1h.

Other words you cast metal after 2 hours you finish print.

You can read and see more here Test of Blue-Cast: compatible and castable resin


#206

Silver ring. No defect with Blue-Cast


#207

Witam,
proszę o kontakt- wyślij mi swój email
( iwona [email protected])

pozdrawiam Dariusz S.


#208

Sounds like it is not fully cured. I usually have to cure parts for 8 hours or more per side.

Yes, it should. If the resin isn’t fully cured it will react with the investment causing defects.

Yes.


#209

mmmMMMmmmm
looks perfect

I want to try this magic liquid

many thanks for top-valuable post


#210

WhatsApp /mobile +48797729317
skype: gport1zs
[email protected]
:slight_smile:


#211

@BlueCat
@3d_Garage
Hello,
I don’t cast by myself.
have a question:
if I buy your resin, so
could I send printed piece of your resin to casting company
and could they use it with normal casting process of lost wax casting?

possible to achieve the same result as yours with classical burnout schedule?

Probably they won’t agree for shortened process of burnout just for 1 hour.
(any change for them is not acceptable :smiley: hehe ) I respect that- no choice actually

Peter


#212

Hi Peter,

BlueCast withstands all casting processes including steam dewaxing wax & resin mixed cylinder and burnout with ramp from 4 to 12 hours.

Ability to sublimate and burn within one hour is a plus we searched for those who need model quickly without wasting time and money leaving oven heated for many hours.

We will post shortly some useful indications about how to prepare models with sprues in order to send them to casting sevice and get back perfect casting, this because many casting service they use exotic sprues and/or “resin processing” that are some case unuseful or sometimes they decrease surface quality.


#213


It is cast using CABL02
He is perfect


#214

Looking at the background around the “L” on the shield it looks like the surface is not very smooth - If it was wax i would expect the surface to be perfectly smooth. Is the roughness deliberate or is it in the casting? I ask because this is what I am seeing sometimes when i am casting with cabl02.


#215

do you cast by yourself?


#216

This is the laser print result (point).
Printing can not be done on a smooth surface.
Some horizontal stripes, I support the shelf did not do a good job, but can be polished.
(Sorry my English is not good enough.)


#217

It was a simple casting machine I made.


#218

Cool Thanks - yes i am aware of the stripes and surface bumps caused by the laser curing the resin.


#219

My process

UV resin curing time, not necessarily.

  1. led 365nm or led 405nm are not important, as long as the surface is dry, not sticky hands.
  2. 50w light for one hour, temperature 30 ~ 45 C, remove the removal of the bracket (this time the best time to clear the stent, but not polished)
  3. 100W light for 2 hours, temperature 60-70 C, remove the waiting for cooling the surface hardening, grinding the remaining support points.
    (In fact, also tested 30 minutes of light casting, is also successful, relatively thin pieces.)

Casting
Temperature is in accordance with the official warming table.
The focus is to flip (inverted), the surface of the pock is because the resin does not flow out, give him time to clean the resin flow,
30 minutes flip once, a total of four times (in accordance with the thickness of the ring to increase or decrease), some bad out of shape, angle can be tilted.

我的流程

UV樹脂固化的時間,沒有一定。

  1. led 365nm 或是led 405nm 都沒有要緊,只要表面乾燥,不黏手.
  2. 50w 光照一小時,溫度30~45 C ,取出拆支架(這時候最好清除支架時間,但是不要打磨)
  3. 100W 光照2小時,溫度60-70 C,取出等待冷卻表面硬化,打磨剩餘的支架點。
    (其實也測試過光照30分鐘就鑄造,也是成功,比較薄件。)

鑄造
溫度按照官方升溫表。
重點是要翻面(倒立),表面麻面是因為樹脂沒有流出,要給他時間把樹脂流乾淨,
30分鐘翻轉一次,共翻轉4次(依照厚度不同的戒指增加或減少),有些不好流出的造型,角度可以傾斜。


#220

Home and then shoot the machine up.


#221

Rick - thanks for reply

Last week I also started to use 100W but with next lens (to enhance the multiple power)
for focusing the spotlight.
10 minutes ago I received next pieces casted in gold.
Everything is clean.
So I’m at home with outsource casting. Happy about the results.
Agree that small items cures faster because the border is thinner of surface so light is getting faster to the core of the printed item.
It is more easy to cast (small things as earrings, pendants) than bigger items.

After advice of you all and FL’s person here,
I can say that curing is essential to receive good casting result
(of course if casted properly)