I send wax (blue castable resin ) to company zpcasting.com
I used to have the same problem but eliminated them by setting up an initial burn of 290 degrees for four hours. At this temperature even using regular satincast I have no problems any longer and the castings look great. it seems that above 300 degrees the resin expands. The plaster investment must dry, harden and cure in order to withstand the expansion of the resin. Four hours usually does this just fine and then the oven can proceed to the normal cycle that you like.
Has anyone found a solution to the removing the striations/layer lines on the castable resin models?
@mikhailburyakov’s ring looks amazing, but the striations are distracting and it looks impossible to hand finish
I am just wondering if there is perhaps a (gentle? small particle?) vibratory tumbling media we could put the resin ring in to minimize the lines on the castable resin ring?
Like something from here?
http://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment/120/polishing-and-finishing/118/tumbling/292/dry-media/1074/
I called Rio Grande, they suggested the [Shell Shine Green Tumbling Media][1][1]: http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Shell-Shine-Green-Tumbling-Media/339141?Pos=2
@Monger_Designs, what have you found that works for getting a good surface finish?
I encountered the same problem,
Surface is very rough, but I can not solve this problem.
@bhrugesh_virani
best thing to solve problem is curing it with UV curing box for at least 4 hrs. or till it doesn’t remain sticky.
you must perfectly maintain burnout cycle as it would not be possible to get better surface in wax burnout cycle.
resin burnout cycle is given by formlabs. you must follow it very accurately
Well I used plasticast investment cured my rings for 4 hours. I degassed my investment in the flask and also vibrated out the bubles. I didn’t have a digital scale so that may be my problem. I may have ratiod the investment a little too wet. I followed the burnout procedure with a 5 degree celcius accuracy. I think my oven didn’t keep up with the temp at one point for about an hour. The thermistat on my kiln controller was accurate but the thermostat on the actual oven was not for about an hour. It is an analog furnace so I’m chalking that up to a bad reading. It’s still burning now so ill post pics when complete. I also tried to experiment by flipping the flask over @ 300 celcius. Not sure if that did anything but hopefully that helps the resin gases escape.
not to worry if using plasticast. srs cad cast or same investment. also investment used for platinum will do or steel , i mean higher temperature metal investment powder. initial burnout is important as resin tend to expand if temperature rise faster, so if furnace not accurate could create problem. I was getting same problems before. hard to get those investment powder in India as only common powder used here am getting perfect result with that also just by changing my thermostat with temperature rate control thermostat and maintaining perfect burnout cycle as mentioned by formlabs team.also UV curing for 4 hours is as important to get better result. For faster processing during UV curing try to clean part in IPA with gently rubbing with ofcourse your gloves on than put part in water filled transparent glass plastic glass would also do (just to deprive it from oxygen as oxygen tends to slower curing process)and than put it for curing in uv box. Could cure by his method in just 40 mins. be sure to have cleaned part in IPA with no uncured resin above its surface. Results are near to wax . better than HR procast resin. would start posting pics in some days as trying more tweaks
I Have found that by mixing my investment (regular satincast) substantially thicker and not using a DE-bubbleizer I get a substantially smoother casting with much less finishing required.
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I am also curious about striation removal.
Who has a creative solution to this?
Also, are people doing this to the resin model or the cast ring?
Hi David,
I have tried different products to improve the striations and the one thing that works is lacquer.
It has made a big difference for me. I think the laquer also helps in investment breakdown.
One time I had 2 part of the same to caste, one just cured and the other one cured and lacquered.
The one that was just cured showed posority like on the surface, the other was smooth like a wax casting.
The 2 parts were put in the same flask.
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Evert! Thanks!
Great idea. How did you apply the lacquer? What form did it come in (liquid, aerosol)? Link?
At first I used the hand held spray lacquer you get from Home Depot.
I now use an air brush and it is much nicer.
I use Minwax lacquer (liquid) but I am sure others will work well too.
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Here is a picture of the rough castings.
The one at the bottom I lacquered.
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Hello everybody,
Sorry for being late in reply as am always busy with work. A bit of introduction of myself below, and would be always thankful to Monger as unknowingly he helped me a lot for resin casting problems.
I am desinging in CAD since 2002 in jewelcad (still best program for fast designing).
till 2007 used to work on CAD and printed things out in four view ports for hand making to make my bench workers understand my designs better (bit like doing cad digital to making work in analogue method)
from 2007 started working on 3d printers mostly wax based.(3d system types)
from 2009 shifted to rhinoceros (best software till date)
2010 owned my first printer solidscape ( now have 3 solidscape one of the best wax result 3d printer)
2012 owned my first 3d system ( projet 3500 cpx now upgraded to 3510 cpx max )
2013 owned my first form 1 ( first sla based unbelievable product for price )
2014 owned form 1 + ( got frustrated by not get casting than posted these topic and slowly started getting it sorted out thats why thanking Monger design ).
I love how in forum people help each other (so i was sorry was not able to give out any knowledge which i have as being real busy always) We do 300 to 400 design per month providing masters. ( posting many images of that)
I use all of my printers daily and you guys would get amazed i use my FORM 1 + almost daily for many types of design (as wax base printer does have many limitation. FORM 1+ has least as for considering price believe me)
So if i am of any help please let me know also available on whatsapp my number is +91 98790 00091
please fill free to call or post image on whatsapp would love to be help full to you guys 
All my work ( all mixed up if start assorting it, would never be able to post it)
Any question welcomed and also nowadays getting best casting result in resin still no hands on special investment powder hard to get it in india (sometime better than wax )
Also any suggestions welcomed ( monger design)
Also forgive out-focus as jewellery is hard to get photographed especially when you are in hurry to provide casting and doesn’t have proper equipment
some work on-line also www.facebook.com/sindoncadcam please press like if you like it.
thanks for viewing this post
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hope this method works for me