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The clear resin can be polished?

@JoshK “the damn stuff is immune to everything” hahahaha

@JasonLivingston

can you tell me where to buy the spray?

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I have had clear parts polished and after about a minute, they will haze up. Spray with the acrylic clear and they look almost perfect. It is just standard acrylic spray paint clear coat. Most will have UV inhibitors and help to clear up the hazy look of the clear resin with a couple of light coats.

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thank you very much!

will try to get this spray here in mexico.

At least in the US, you can buy these kinds of sprays in hardware and art stores. Anywhere you can buy spraypaint will usually have some kind of clear coat spray. You can get it in satin, semi-gloss, or gloss, but you should choose the high gloss type to make your bottles as transparent as possible (and the most like a PET blowmolded bottle).

maybe in the home-depot :smiley:

You could try an air eraser - like an airbrush/miniature sandblaster.

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I have made some clear covers here and we use a series of 500 then 800 grit paper on large flat surfaces and a dremmel for the small curved spaces and then just put a light layer of a clear coat I used a clear rustoleum spray paint to give it the wet look. It is a pain but I am not sure what else you could do to get that absolute clear glass look. I would avoid the sand blaster idea only because the material chips easily after it is cured and you may pit the material to easily.
Straight off the printer

after sanding and dremmel polishing

After clear spray

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Polishing the outside will be easy compared to the inside!

I also forgot to say you should use the Novus 2 and 1 sprays while sanding (wet sanding) never dry sand it or it may not come out “clear”

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It has been mentioned but using mineral oil after dry sanding really gets ride of any residual whitish marks, clearing the part up for photography or presentation.

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@ Thomas_Judy

Hi Thomas, your clear polished part looks amazing! Can you tell me the exact name of the Rustoleum product you used to get that ‘wet look’?

Here is a link to what I used

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/8803161275700828430?q=rustoleum+clear&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=756&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.80642063,d.cGE&ion=1&tch=1&ech=1&psi=pAZ_VNSTAcb0iAKj2ICQCg.1417610916876.5&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX0_GVbVJlTNMGHhLP2RxyKRVR_9hq29ShMFomSwg_knsuMYUGyEwB84Y53oEt_kmChsHlqj6Sy07hjQrJBajqXIDZzwBuFzPd3E-WcC6gGMh8Xw1nBIZAFPVH71a-WkHhrWpfZ4nLJ_VcZpfCsPijw&ei=rQZ_VJ_sBcLeoATSroGwBg&ved=0CLoCEKYrMAw

if that dose not work it is just Rustoleum 12 oz Gloss Clear Painters Touch

Be sure to never paint the part laying down, always hang it if possible, and do light passes over the part starting the spray off the part and then move it over the part and stop off the part. If you start and stop over the part you will get tiny air bubbles that will drive you crazy. If you rush you will get spotting if you go to slow it will get runs so be sure to have a test part and practice because it only takes one mistake to ruin a paint job.

Good Luck
Tom

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HI! What tool did you used with the dremell to polish it?

Thanks!

Are there any types of Acrylic Clear Coat that are specifically UV transparent, meaning that they do not block UV light?

I’m printing a part for a rotating UV platform in my curing chamber, so it would ideally not block UV light, while also being as transparent as possible.

Next time I have a spare part to mess around with I will try my tumbler with some fine walnut shell in it. Might take some of the labor out in polishing the part and at least get it so it can be sprayed with clear acrylic.

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A quick search isn’t yielding much in the way of coatings specifically designed for UV transparency. We’ve had good results with the Rustoleum Clear Enamels and although the datasheets don’t have specifications for light transmission, in the absence of specific blocking pigments I would expect it to be quite high. You could always run an experiment with a laser and photodiode :slight_smile: Prolonged exposure to high temperatures may be an issue with some of the enamels and mechanical polishing methods with increasingly high grit sandpaper and polishing compounds might be the most reliable long-term solution.

This will work well with organic shapes, but will leave the centres of flat surfaces unpolished.

Good to know, that will save me some time changing out my media :slight_smile: