Hello,
I’d like to get recommendations as to how to polish a part printed in clear resin.
What tools do you use? Do you use a polishing compound, and what compounds? I’ve read that painting with a clear acrylic lacquer will give a clear effect. What paint is recommended?
Any suggestions to get the best clear finish is appreciated.
I’m using a Form 2 (used) and so far prints I’ve made in clear resin have come out perfect, though, as you know, once cured they’re not clear.
Thanks!
For clear parts, I do a two-stage buffing and polishing process using the dental polishing lathe, first a wet cutting/buffing step with a pumice substitute, then a dry polish with a tan high-shine bar. After that, I either apply a clear coat or wipe it down with mineral oil, depending on the final look I’m going for. Mineral oil is great for making parts look good in photos, but it dries up over time, so for a more permanent finish, I’ve tried a million different ways. For large flat pieces, I start with a palm sander, going from 100 to around 800-1000 grit to smooth out surface artifacts, then either buff the outside with cutting compound and a car buffing wheel or apply a self-leveling clear coat. For small parts, I use a rotary tool with scotch brite abrasive and polishing bits. You can play around with different compounds, I’ve had good luck with the dental workflow of pumice substitute and tan high shine compound, but I’ve also experimented with the 3-step Novus acrylic polishing system, as well as Meguiar’s car compounds for cutting, buffing, and polishing.
Another trick is using UV-cured clear resin (not for 3D printing), rubbing it into the surface, and curing it under UV light, kind of like mineral oil but without the residue. It really depends on what the part geometry is and what level of clarity you’re going for. I’ve experimented with so many different processes that there isn’t one singular one, but that’s the general path I go down.
In terms of preventing yellowing from ambient UV over time, you can kill two birds with one stone by spraying a clear printed part with a UV resistant spray clear coat. I’ve found most cheap ones work well, but automotive ones are a little more expensive and are better with a smooth glossy self-leveling finish. Good luck!
Here is an example of how I 3D printed a clear glass with Clear V5 on Form 4.
here is one where I made a snow globe,
and here is one of our content creators making a clear dome for a toy design.
You should still get good results with Clear V4, but just for comparison, this is Clear V4 vs Clear V5 with Form 4, Clear V5 has much higher clarity and reduced yellowing.
I highly recommend Form 4 with Clear V5, f you have no plans to upgrade to Form 4, you can consider switching to our Clear V4.1 Resin. The General Purpose V4.1 Resins were launched to bring some of the better aesthetics of the General Purpose V5 Resins to Form 3/3L users.
Hi Henryqiu,
Thank you for your extensive recommendations on polishing clear resin parts. My requirements are not critical and I don’t mind a little hazing. What I’m creating are sculptured like windows for HO scale houses. These houses are not your typical designs used on scale model railway scenes, but they’re rather modern, futuristic like designs. Of course, I will be trying your recommendations on other clear resin objects I’m creating. Thanks again!
You will be surprised how far a tiny bit of cheap aerosol high gloss clear coat will get you! For miniatures, I would personally go for some high gloss clear varnish/clear coat with an airbrush just for some more control, and is a bit more forgiving than aerosol drips.