Media Size: Before using the polisher, we used the G6 Glass Beads from Blast-it-All. Now with the polisher we are locked in to use the FL provided media. It is expensive, but from my understanding it should have a nearly infinite lifetime compared to the glass. We only use polishing media because it cleans almost as effectively as glass, and of course has the polishing benefit. Something to consider if you have internal tight corners, small holes, or tight gaps is the media size. The polishing media is significantly larger than our glass media (600-900um vs. 200-300um), and we had to slightly alter some designs to keep these plastic beads from getting trapped in gaps. We also had to limit sharp edges (internally and externally) to clean more thoroughly and provide a better finished look. FL preset polishing runs are for something like 30 and 45 minutes, but 15 minutes has been enough time for us.
Dye System: We are using a basket fryer (similar to this) at the moment but hope to upgrade to the option @LEADNAV is using (I noticed in FL recent video that they are using this exact model). In the french fry cooker we’ve set up a cheap circulating pump (like this) to keep everything mixed. We run around 175F for 35 minutes (probably overkill on the time but worth the wait). The tank is hooked up right on a stainless surface next to a deep sink. A shallow bin is kept full of water in the sink. After the time is up, we pull the basket out and slosh it around the bin while running water over top. Parts are then laid out on grates under a fan, and once dried they are polished again. This is when the polishing effect really pops.
Dye: Using any Rit Black dye should work well, especially the DyeMore since it’s suited for Nylon. However, we’ve opted for Rit ProLine powder as it’s much more cost effective and used industrially. Aiming for 1.5-2% dye concentration by weight has yielded good results for us. We also add about 2% white vinegar. The dye bath is used for about 1.5 weeks before remaking the mixture. Exposure to air will oxidize the dye bath and heat accelerates the process. What we’ve noticed is that the red/yellow components of the dye oxidize much quicker than the blue component, and this will leave you with poorly balanced color and blue parts (we learned this the hard way).
Quick question @LEADNAV, does the dye tank you’re using implement a pump to agitate water or is the circulation a result of the fluid heating?