Materials Question


#1

Of all the printing materials available to the Form 2: Which material resembles closest to cellulose acetate?


#2

What are you looking for in this material exactly ? No single resin will be close to it, but if you can share what properties you are looking to emulate then it will be easier to answer… without more information I would say something in between Durable and Tough but probably more like Durable.


#3

I’m looking for a material both strong and flexible with the ability to elongate slightly and not break


#4

How much elongation?

Of the non-rubbery resins… Durable is the most flexible and abrasion resistant. It does not break readily.

But its not super flexible…


#5

Agreed! Durable seems to be the closest in our current range, but I’m not quite sure it will have all the necessary attributes @crystaleyecare is looking for.


#6

Cellulose acetate is normally used in thin sheet thickness and is known for its clarity - is clarity needed in this application? If so then durable is no where near


#7

Thank you for responses. Clarity isn’t absolutely needed but preferred. Cellulose acetate is the industry standard for making a pair of plastic (Zylonite aka Zyl) glasses. I would like to start 3D printing some prototypes and one-offs to expand my practice’s portfolio. I’ve had the most experience with the clear acrylic, but it is simply too brittle, but I can polish it to an almost lens like quality

I can epoxy a color onto it, although translucent colors look pretty cool (translucent colors do need light to be transmitted through the printed medium). I need something that can withstand the pressure of a lens exerting force outward. Also, something that can withstand general wear and tear would be prioritized for me.


#8

Can’t you print a negative and then cast it?


#9

I don’t know if acetate can be injection molded, but that would get into a whole other area that I’m not quite ready to enter.
Here’s an interesting video on how acetate is made. Their acetate is considered the best in the world.


#10

As Fantasy2 suggested- I think you are better off printing a negative mold into which you can cast any number of different room temperature resins that might offer a variety of characteristics you can then evaluate for the best fit.

If optical surfaces are what you are after, you may want to try Water Clear urethanes- that can print a near optically clear surface and that are remarkably resilient.

You want to find one that takes a good 18- 20 hours to cure- and takes a post cure- they will have the lowest shrinkage and cast with the best possible surface quality.


#11

It looks like the durable is the closest. I will try this and let you know. As for the injection molded suggestion, I will consider it, but I’m simply not there yet. I know for that I would have to use the high temp resin for the mold.