The part is as clean as you see here, from all angles. I should add, it’s only about 1.5" across at its widest, so the quality of detail is really excellent.
I have observed that the pigment settles out really quickly and once in the tank it requires a fair amount of stirring to re-mix. Maybe that’s contributing to your blobbiness?
And another print, quite a bit larger, also looks pretty good (though I haven’t busted away the supports yet, obviously)…
No! Wait! Now I have!
I have to say, I’m really pleased with this SF resin. It’s printing beautifully, and the print pretty much falls off the supports with a little flexing of the base. Much easier to remove than the FL Clear or Grey resin, no tools required, and no chipping/cracking of the print during support removal (a problem I’ve had with very thin walls, in particular, with the FLClear).
And if you’re curious, what it looks like attached to what it’s designed to be attached to, a tiny 125mm span “nano-Quad” copter with a live video camera feed.
what FL color setting do you use with this stuff??
Grey 01.
@Randy_Cohen, so based on your experience with the SF, do you think this chart from MadeSolid is skewed and simply just a marketing ploy? My Vorex arrives today, but it would really be nice if the SF actually is more durable than FL - that would save a lot of money for sure!
image taken from: http://madesolid.com/vorex-resin.html
“Toughness” doesn’t sound very scientific. I wonder why they don’t just show test results. It makes me wonder if there is something they don’t want you focusing on.
When they called me to tell me black was out of stock, they did say that independent lab testing is almost complete, and they will be posting results once the report is finished. That should be interesting, because without seeing actual data there’s no telling if there is any “padding” put into their toughness calculation.
In any case, my liter of Vorex should arrive today. Randy’s SF results do look promising though… they just don’t really match up to the chart.
Toughness is actually very scientific and is a standard material property
There are a number of other properties that it would be useful to know but these are all carried out using internationally recognised tests and these tests cost money. It wouldn’t surprise me if they hadn’t paid a lab to carry out the testing required.
The other issue you have is that the various material properties may well change depending on the orientation of the print which could mean you have to carry out the same tests several times over with several different orientations to get meaningful figures.
Source - Mechanical engineer by training, drilling engineer by trade 
Good deal.
I didn’t know that. I guess it just doesn’t help my imagination. @Randy_Cohen’s post about the MakerJuice SF resin over on the “selection of functional…” topic was far more insightful for me.
Yeah. I do a lot of technical marketing in my job. “Toughness” is a vague and general term that means nothing unless they also define how they’re measuring that toughness.
I was thinking of printing a simple shape, like a Popsicle Stick, to evaluate the different resins. I can clamp one end in a Vice and pull on the other with a Scale until it breaks, and record the load being measured at the time the break occurs. But that may be more work than I’m motivated to do at this point.
Suffice it to say, a part printed with FL Clear 02 breaks when dropped to the floor where the MJSF does not. Whether that’s because the SF is more flexible or actually stronger I cannot say, but it’s the desired outcome so it doesn’t matter much.
The brittleness of the parts is attributed to IPA baths used to clean the parts.
I have been using an alternate cleaner and so far without IPA my parts have no surface degradation, no part warping, not nearly as brittle and clean times are down to just under 5 minutes.
Be nice to see how the different resins compare without the IPA and see how parts hold up in their natural state.
That is certainly very promising to hear about the SF. I also wonder how the regular madesolid MS performs, although the SF is super easy to clean up, correct? That is also a huge selling point. MS is also $100 + $25 shipping, vs the MJSF at $65+$15… I couldn’t resist and just ordered a liter of the Grey MJSF.
Vorex arrives today. This should be an interesting comparison.
@KenCitron can you remind us again what your procedure is? All your claims seem too good to be true!
I haven’t tried the MS resins, heard mixed reviews on how it clouds the PDMS.
My cleanup procedure now is I pop my part into a heated ultrasonic cleaning machine and set it for 480 sec with the heaters on. Keeping the heat below 120º F, Then I rinse it under tap water and dry it.
I have more cleaner coming in and will test the new batch and let you know how it works. I am hoping to test with Formlabs resin since it seems to be the best even though it is pricey. It is also thicker than the others. The test I did with FL resin seemed to work in the same procedure.
I would like to have the parts printed from the different resins tested and see how much “tougher” they are compared to ones cleaned in IPA. Be nice to see how much the IPA degrades the different brands.
MakerJuice SF black resin parts cleaned with IPA on the left, resin cleaner part on the right.
So rather than put it in IPA you put it in an ultrasonic cleaner? Is it just water in the cleaner?
I have a water based cleaner that was originally developed for cleaning plastisol ink off of screens used for screen printing t-shirts. Was a product my Uncle had developed over 15 years ago and for kicks I gave it a try on the resins for the Form1+ I have because I noticed the IPA was damaging the parts and distorting it.
Because it isn’t a solvent it doesn’t saturate and become a toxic sludge that is difficult to dispose of. Since it is water based you need to use a brush or a lightly heated ultrasonic cleaner. Plain water or hot water won’t clean the resin off. Water that is too hot will also damage plastic or risk distortion.
FYI DO NOT USE IPA IN AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER BECAUSE IT MAY CATCH FIRE
I finally had a chance to test out my MJSF grey and I am very impressed! Details were spot on, and after dropping on the floor a few times, prints appear to be more durable. I plan on testing a lot more, but initial results are fantastic!
Yeah, I agree. I printed this landing gear in clear, and it shattered on my first hard landing. I printed it in MJSF and flew a bunch of flights with some hard landings and it just bounced. Exactly what I was looking for.
Excellent post, @Gary_Cairns, many thanks for the due diligence.
@KenCitron-- A quick search for water-based cleaners to use on screens printed with Plastisol ink returns a few good candidates. Both EnviroSolv and Franmar’s Aqua Wash are formulated for Plastisol inks. Interestingly, Yellow Magic is specifically designed for UV-cured inks, and it’s even recommended for use in an ultrasonic bath.
Can you tell us a bit more about the image you posted of MJSF black resin cleaned in IPA vs. resin cleaner?
We may be giving up on developing the water base cleaner since it is too costly to start up (just one ingredient will run us over $100,000 because of minimum ordering).
I’ll look into Yellow Magic, sounds promising. Ideally you don’t want the cleaner to absorb into the cured plastic which IPA does do. In the case of MJSF you can see the surface crack like a desert from the IPA.
I basically was dropping the part into the ultrasonic bath that was heated slightly >125°F. Cold bath didn’t work as well. I would be interested in results from other water base cleaners. I think this is just a better way than the toxic sludge everyone is creating with IPA.
I agree the MJ resins aren’t half bad but I have problems with support sides printing poorly and it seemed cloud my PDMS within half a liter. Not sure if there are improvements since the batch I purchased. I do like the cleanup with it, much quicker and it seems to take less force to peel large areas. I think the surface itself is fairly porous giving it that matte finish.
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