Form 1 / 1+ / 2 3rd Party Resin Settings Master List


#443

it seems at black v1, it overcures slightly, and the object is 0.2mm bigger than it was supposed to. More test is needed


#444

Definitely go with grey v3. I am very happy with it and will use it as the refill


#445

Happy to hear that the first people got their reset tool in the mail this week! Let us know your experience and printing results with other resins.

I’m happy to build another batch, so please let me know via email(info@protoart.net) if you’re interested. Also, if you’re a retailer or wholesaler and are interested to sell this tool in combination with your resins, please contact me. :slight_smile:


#446

I am interested, what does this tool do? @fantasy2


#447

Been away from the thread for a while, but it resets the value related to resin use on the chip making it think it is full again. If I remember correctly.


#448

As @cjryker06 said, this tool allows to reset cartridges so you can use alternative resins in closed mode.


#449

On the Bucktown resin. I’ve been trying to get this and my printer working together and have noticed a few things. My setup:

Form 1+ in open mode
Bucktown EP200-V420S

I spent a weekend trying to tune the printer to the resin with custom .ini files. This is as opposed to tuning the resin to the printer. I used no additives, reducers, or dyes, just tried to get the printer to work with the resin as-is. My test objects were simple cubes both supported and unsupported as well as a square test layout that you can find here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Working-Curve-Measurement-on-the-Form1/. I tried power settings ranging from 4W to 60W with scanning speeds between 500-1600. Layer thickness was aimed at 0.1mm for all trials. With slower scanning I could get the resin to cure even at single digit power levels. Likewise, I could reduce overcure at higher power levels with faster scanning. Makes sense.

However, I could never get rid of overcure. I found that once I dialed in the power-scanning parameters to the point where I could just barely get the resin to cure it would immediately cure through to about a 1mm depth. The resin would also be very flexible and weak. Increasing the power level or reducing the scanning rate would firm up the resin but also increase cure depth up to about 4mm. Dropping the power or increasing scanning rate would result in no cure at all. This was tested printing directly on the bottom of the tank with the build platform removed and using the square layout from the instructable referenced above.

Essentially the Bucktown stuff out of the bottle goes from “no response” to “over-response” on a razor thin margin. You can get it to cure using any power level you want by adjusting the scan rate but the instant you get it to cure it will overcure. Or rather, cure 10x too deeply.

I also note that I could get very precise cube prints in X-Y, and even Z dimensions. However, the supports would usually be a completely solid mass under the parts as the laser would cure all the way through the currently printing layer and harden any resin that may have been behind it.

I’ll point out that this may not be a concern if you’re printing a part with no overhangs. Print directly on the build platform with no supports and you’ll be fine. Unfortunately, the reason we all bought 3D printers in the first place was so we could print the really cool stuff almost all of which will have an overhang of some kind somewhere.

So I’m pretty much giving up on tuning the Form 1+ to the Bucktown out of the bottle. I’m not giving up on using the resin though. But I think the only option is to instead tune the Bucktown to the printer as Yoderkl and others have done above. Unfortunately tuning the Bucktown requires a chemical that is controlled and that I can’t get shipped to my house (BBOT) or the 3D Resyns LB1 which costs so much to ship from the UK to the US for 50ml that it would become the dominant cost factor in trying to use Bucktown resin.

However, I did just find this on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/UV-Inhibitor-Solution-99-Quart/dp/B00N11HQWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510886138&sr=8-2&keywords=uv+inhibitor&dpID=51BkumJO9ML&preST=SY445_QL70&dpSrc=srch
I have no idea if this will work but it’s less than $50 shipped for a quart of the stuff so I may give it a try. Thoughts?

TL:DR I can’t tune the printer to the Bucktown, I think you have to tune the Bucktown to the printer. That’s expensive unless this boat resin additive works. I kind of think it will work. Thoughts?


#450

The first thing I would try is a pigment for the resin. Get some black pigment for casting epoxy and start adding to a small batch of Bucktown. This controls cure depth by a physical barrier of particles instead of the blocker. It’s quite a bit cheaper than UV blocker.

You’ll have to sneak up on the amount of pigment needed. I would recommend a really good gram scale to measure the pigment by weight and add it to the known volume of resin. If you only print small test parts during the tuning process it’s fairly easy to find a ratio that works.

The dye that you can get with the Bucktown resin really doesn’t do much for our machines. The dye just doesn’t have the pigment barrier that we need. It does fine tune a little but not much.


#451

One of my objectives is to get the Bucktown to work without dye because I really want to be able to print with clear resin. I also noted that based on Yoderkl’s experience, the dye seems to reduce overcure but not eliminate it before the parts undercures.
I’m going to go ahead and order that UV blocker additive I found on amazon and see what difference that makes if any.


#452

Have you tried changing the laser spot size? I’m curious if using a higher resolution spot size would prevent the excessive cure depth? I also agree that adding pigment is going to be your cheapest method to get it tuned. Lastly, as @BPolymers mentioned, they actually have a reducer (clear) to use with their resins to change the chemistry. I got busy and never played around with it, but call Bucktown and ask for some Reducer for your particular resin, and specifics on how to affect the cure slope.


#453

The only way to get Bucktown resin to print clear is with a photo blocker.

This pretty much counts for all clear resins. The laser is going to penetrate a clear material with even minimal power. Without a blocker of some sort you’re very unlikely to get things to be consistent.


#454

Is the Omnistab OB | cas no. 7128-64-5 | 2,5 thiophenediylbis (5-tert-butyl-1,3 benzoxazole) the UV blocker that was used? If so, what was the ratio used for the EP200-V420 Clear with the Form2? Did the same ratio hold true when pigment or dye was added? We could offer a Form2 version of the EP200 but I suspect that it would still have to be turned slightly for different colors and opacities. We don’t have any Formlabs printers here since we build all our own custom printers.


#455

Hi
Great work here, thank you very much for all the info.
Does anyone here tried to use Detax Freeprint Temp resins?
They say it’s “For all LED/UV printers with a light spectrum of 378-388 nm”.
Would it work on the Form2?

LINK HERE


#456

Omnistab OB is very likely what is used (parts fluoresce under uv light). We get this suspended in a monomer and don’t know that percentage.

I didn’t find much effect from the dye that was provided with the bucktown resin so I suspect that a single blocker amount could be used in the base resin regardless of dye used. Pigment is probably a different story. I actually like the translucent look of the EP200-V420 with dye only.

Looking at resin recipe for a similar style printer they use 0.16% (wt/wt) of OB.

It takes about 250 mL to test in the Form 2


#457

@yoderkl

how’s your test go with Peopoly Grey?

I am looking to get several brands’ clear and see which one prints best with Form2


#458

Wanted everyone to know I purchased one of these, used on two cartridges and it didn’t work.

The listed two cartridges did not reset at all that I tried them on.

Form2 Printer was Factory Reset (Confirmed with no Job history, no Forms Dashboard access, etc after the reset).

His software may need to be updated, but I wanted to warn everyone for now it is not working


#459

It is very unfortunate that you jump into conclusions and post this kind of message(“warning”) before giving me any time to mail back to you… It’s saturday and I’m not behind my computer all day…

The tool is working fine and I got several confirmations from other users that it does it’s job perfectly. However, Formlabs is trying to make it unusable and is reading here as well(hi guys!)… So I’m not sharing more info on the forum. Please be a little bit more patient so I get time to mail you back…


#460

Operator error or someone purposely trying to counter such a device to maintain profit margins are not reasons to instantly be a “D” to the creator. Don’t trust that dashboard so much as it has updating issues. Mine hasn’t updated in weeks until today when I ran out of resin. So come up with your own tool or chill.


#461

I hate to be the third person on this train, but it really needs to be said:

Dude probably spent many hours, solely reverse engineering a component of the Form2, shared his knowledge with everyone, and then went so above and beyond by not only fabricating these devices for us, but also took the time to program them as well. Since it is obvious that this device is experimental at best, it’s a risk (albeit small) to spend money on, but it seems to the people that truly understand the work he has put into this, like it is in poor taste to make a comment like that without speaking with him first. I just got mine and can’t wait to start using it. And to be honest, even if it didn’t work at all, I would still sit there and marvel at how in the fuck did he embed a computer component into a solid print. No offense brother, we have just all spent a lot of time working and sharing knowledge with each other, and I think we just want to keep that spirit alive!


#462

Which begs the question:

How in the fuck did you embed an electrical component into a solid print?