The material couldn’t handle the temperatures for plastic injection. The temp is way above the max temp listed but I figured it was worth a try.
I have an aluminum frame that holds the prints for molding. This is by far the best way to go even for the small desktop machines.
Polypropylene is your friend. If you need the part to be stiffer use 10% glass filled material. It takes some looking to find glass filled but it’s worth it.
Thanks for the answer!
I was thinking about using ABS-plastic. The glass I guess would be a good thing for me to make the Polypropylene less flexible.
What are the benefits of using Polypropylene? I guess it floats well in mold.
And why did you choose to print a mold instead of printing a prototype and then casting a mold around it?
ABS just takes a bit more work to get right. The temp is a bit higher and it likes a bit more temperature. It’s just not as easy to work with. Polypropylene does flow well in the mold even with glass filled parts. It’s also more durable when used in hobby machines (the controls just aren’t there for ABS).
Most of the molds I do are for very short part runs to prove out a design. Printing a mold is faster than casting around a master part. That said I do have a project currently that will use a casting to make a 4 part mold.
Thanks. I will go for Polypropylene!
Do post a picture of your plastic injection setup or of some of the things you casted if you want to! : )
As some of you were wondering if I am still alive: Yes!
It’s going a bit slower than expected as I wanted to make things more pretty…
Hardware for the programmers arrived and is working. Housing for the electronics fits perfectly, I can read and program the chips and I’m now working on the software side. 
It will be as simple as one button press after you see a green light.
And done!
Just slide the programmer in, click a button in the software and your cartridge is reset in 5 seconds.
The programmer costs 44.95 USD and this includes worldwide shipping.
Within Europe, delivery is in about a week, everywhere else two weeks.
If you’re interested, send me an email with your address: [email protected]
I’m going on holiday for the coming two weeks so I can’t send anything or respond to emails. When I return I will start building and shipping the devices.
Next step will be the blank chips. I do not have an ETA at the moment.
NOTE: This product is neither supported nor recommended by formlabs. It does what it needs to do and you can refill your tank and continue printing. However, I cannot be held responsible in case of failures and no support can be requested from formlabs.
This makes the printer see the cartridge as not reaching its use limit correct? Now to only find some more rubber nubs!
I’m Interested fantasy2 great work but may wait until after your holiday. also will this run on Mac?
Correct. Only to reset the cartridge usage for now.
Exactly.
Currently it only works on Windows but as it behaves as a human-interface-device it should be possible to make it work on a Mac too.
Hi
Reply to Fantasy2 anf hist post 397.
Our ready to print 3D resins can be ordered upon request by email: [email protected]ns.com for the Form 1+, Form 2, Pico series (Asiga) and Wanhao Duplicator 7.
All our standard resins will also be ready to print with the Titan 2 HR (Kudo) quite soon.
Our conductive 3D resins are a specialty which need a detailed analysis of the specific application and customers’ technical requirements.
Feel free to contact us and discuss your goals with our Team.
Greetings
John
Has anyone tested out the Wanhao UV resins? I just got myself a second Form 2 and Im thinking about running it in open mode…
I had to look their resin up. The short answer is no that resin won’t work on a Form 2 because we have no control over the cure times.
The Duplicator 7 is a DLP printer and needs very reactive resin to work. Also, I see a spec of over 3% shrinkage.
When I use 3rd party resins I use 3Dresyns or Apply Labwork. Both work well with the Form 2 but I still limit my 3rd party use to small parts. The Formlabs resins are way more reliable for a large (expensive) print.
In my experience reliability and quality goes up with an activated wiper and heater as the wiper allows the PDMS to ‘breath’ air, improving the non-stick properties of the PDMS.
By the way, I just shipped the first 4 reset tools. I hope you guys like them. Let us know your experience!
If anyone else is interested, please let me know!
<Sold out! Please send me an email if interested>
Fantasy2 yeah I agree I wish this would be allowed with third party resins too I’m curious to see the results of a print with wiper and heater involved. even if we can’t get the auto refill
Hi there i would like to buy, I am based in Singapore/Malaysia, could you please advise me of the postal cost ? thanks
Shipping costs are included! Thanks for the order. New batch will be shipped end of coming week.
I have been printing Peopoly Moai resin (Gray) on my Form2 for about a month now. I found the Black V1 setting works pretty good after finding out from a From1+ user. It is designed for Moai SLA printer with a peeling mechanism similar to Form1+ and seems to print thinner wall better Formlabs’ resin.
