@Durahl, those tank tracks are gorgeous. Did you print individual segments then snap-fit them together?
One tool I’ve found very helpful over the years to “gauge” the likelihood of success of a print before running it is the slicer. I’ll often walk through the layers from platform to the end of my print, and check for a few things, mainly:
How well supported are any “islands” where new areas of my print begin? Preform support generation and minima detection has gotten a lot better at this over the years. Still, if you’re printing with very small contact points (e.g. < 0.4mm) keep in mind placing a couple heftier ones near the beginning of a printed segment can help keep your model rigidly in place as the initial layers form.
How large are any overhangs? Cantilevers and bridges tend to “droop” as you get further away from their supporting points (hence the concave cavities on the bottom surface of your cube).
Is my part angled, and does the location of the current layer “travel” as you scroll through the layers? If your printed layers all “stack” in the same area of the build platform, it can lead to some warping at the edges (for some types of prints) due to the way the resin shrinks slightly when it cures.
I’ve seen success with cubes by orienting them such that one corner points toward the build platform (so the first few layers grow like an inverted pyramid).
You can alternatively try placing one surface directly against the build platform - the solid connection seems to prevent edges curling up - but then you need to compensate for early layer compression.
Of course, these are only rules of thumb, and my advice might not be as helpful to you as a video tutorial. But personally I find there’s no better way than playing with the machine and trying stuff out to gain a deep intuition for how to optimize your results.
You’ve already discovered that putting some thought into how you orient your prints can drastically improve final model quality and reduce the amount of post-processing required. As you alluded, Auto-Orient doesn’t know which surfaces are important so there’s no substitute for a bit of human touch here. I click the button until it puts my part in a position close to what I want, then adjust to taste.
Where I’m able, I tend to design my part from start to finish with the print process in mind - for many projects I’ve found it’s possible to avoid supports altogether (which makes post-processing so much easier). And I’m beginning to appreciate the softer peel process on the Form 3 to gain a bit more latitude to bend the rules.
Hope this helps a little…