New hybrid resin mix


#201

Jesse,

That looks great! I’m glad it worked out. You should have him print the same thing on the Kevvox and post the picture for comparison :wink:


#202

Hey Monger,

Just did my first test with the b9 resin mix and its looking good so far. Will post some pics soon.

Was wandering, with the new update we now know what is the front and hinge sides, does anyone know what is the best way to place your pieces - ie. smallest closest to the peeling corner or vice versa?


#203

Hey Isaac,

Show us some pictures. I am now experimenting with a new ratio of 75% B9 Cherry and 25% Formlabs Grey, and it’s coming out great. Will test to see if this casts better.

You want to position your thin, smallest parts closest to the peeling side. The peel forces get stronger and stronger away from the peel side.


#204

Woohoo 3 pages deep!


#205

It won’t be much of a surprise to folks, but I figured I would report that the B9 Cherry/FormLabs White version of the mix works nicely, too.  I did 50/50.  Still very red, no sign of the white making it pink.  First prints with the mix failed, I think because I jumped the gun and started printing while the mix was still de-bubbling from my stirring, and I also didn’t scrape the silicone with the scraper.  After four hours of de-bubbling (while the first attempt finished the 1 of 3 parts that actually stuck to the build platform), the second run worked very nicely.  I don’t have a picture yet, but sharp outside corners are way better.

I concur that this mix comes off the build platform easier, as Monger mentioned in another post.

And for folks interested in mechanical models and not just art/jewelry, it seems this mix is not as stiff and maybe less prone to fracture than the straight white, even after curing in the sun long enough to get rid of all surface tackiness.


#206

I only got to try a few hybrid prints using Formlabs clear and B9cherry starting with 75/25 then 65/35. I mixed my first time by putting it in a little tuperware type container and just shaking it for a very long time and when I opened it it popped open and splattered everywhere! The prints look good other than some little pits from gas bubbles I think. The parts stay kind of soft and flexable and are still kind of seeping as if theyre slowly melting. I ordered a nail dryer for curing. I’m still undecided as to if they have any better resolution but I like the red and I really like that it is less expensive, even if just a little. Mega thanks to Monger for this!


#207

Thanks for the tip.

Here are some preliminary pics. I started of conservatively doing an 80/20 mix of grey to cherry but im already seeing good results. Just having it be red instead of grey makes it easier to see details for me, and I am noticing a slight increase in detail quality as well.

For my next batch Im going to go something like 60/40 and take it from there.

Im mixing in the vat before every print and not printing anything longer than 4 hours… which is not ideal but worth the sacrifice right now.

Let us know how your 25/75 comes out… have you had any issues with longer prints?


#208

Sorry for the crummy pics… ill try to get a better set up next time (and take them during the day)


#209

Monger for rings and such models, do you find placing them straight on their side (90 degrees from where you have them standing up) messes with the details and gives you mode build lines? In one sense its the optimal orientation because supports are right on the edges and dont take up any detail, but im wandering if tilting them slightly like 20 degrees improves them… conducting a test right now to determine.


#210

The longest print I did with the 60:40 mix was 14 hours for the Eiffel tower and came out fine.

For rings, orienting them standing up gives me the best details. If you have large flat areas, make sure those are well supported.


#211

Thanks.

Do you think adding some cherry to the mix while in the vat is a good idea?

In general how do you deal with adding more resin or changing mixes, do you wait until you’ve used up all the resin you had made or do you add on and mix in the vat?


#212

No. That’s a bad idea. You should mix the resin in a separate container and then pour it into the vat. I’ve never had to print anything so large that I need to add more resin mid-print.


#213

Thats what I do. I meant how do you change mixes/ratios, do you wait until there is nothing left on the vat, do you actually clena the vat before going to a new ratio, or is it ok if there is still a little left from the previous one when putting a new ratio in (that you previsouly mixed outside)


#214

Oh OK. Got the question now.

I pour everything out and scrape out all the remaining resin that I can and then pour the new ratio. If some is left in there it’s OK.


#215

Cool, got it. Thx.


#216

Here is a Shark Tooth I made using Rhino t-splines and finished in Sculptris. I printed this using the 25/75 Form Grey /  B9 Cherry mix. Printed on the 25 micron grey setting. It came out perfect. Even the tiniest detail came out sharp.

I printed 2 of them, so I will be test casting 1 and making a rubber mold of the other. Will post pictures of the results of casting and the mold later.


#217

By the way all the tiny bumps, pits and textures are deliberate and are on the actual model. Those are not peel lines or z-lines.


#218

Nice work as per Monger, you photos are always fantastic. What type of setup are you running?


#219

Thanks Jesse. I shoot a lot of jewelry and product photography for my clients, magazines, etc., so I have a custom lighting setup that I built. I shoot using a Nikon d300 and usually take multiple shots that I then focus stack to get sharp details.


#220

Great stuff Monger.

Have you had any failed prints with this new mix?

I was going to ask about that re the texture… I was assuming all those things that look like build lines were actually part of the model but wasnt sure. Could you post a screenshot of the model so we can compare?

Looking fwd to your casting tests!