Just curious… Really want to print something larger than 8x8, UV pen on the seams for clear? Completely cool with having post finish. It’ll buff out exterior, but will the seams be visible if properly handled… hence my question as I have no clue. Shooting for 21" assembled length and height/depth fit in the volume easily.
Have you read this article?: https://formlabs.com/blog/how-to-create-models-larger-than-your-3d-printers-build-volume/
What I’ve done is model a lip on the two parts that need to attach together so that they can more easily line up, and then it helps if you have the edge that needs to be attached facing upwards because it will turn out the best. I’ve used CA glue to attach it and that works just fine and can fill in the gap. It might help to get some insta-set for the CA glue if it’s not drying fast enough while you’re attaching them.
Maybe I can try alignment plates that get cut off? Looking to have a hull shell of maybe 3 prints with no visible seams from clear resin after assembly. Trying to have a clear boat that shows the internals… curious if there is a method to join clear parts while minimizing seam viz. Alignment flanges sounds solid and thanks for the feedback! Thinking of doing that to keep things true and trimming out post cure. Will post the experiment… dang work getting in the way right now.
Be careful for bubble formation. It can help to put the parts in a vacuum pot before curing(or wait long enough and hope that any bubbles float to the sides and disappear).
with a seam in the middle I don’t know that you’ll be able to hide the seam entirely to make it fully transparent. If you want to try that, then using the resin to attach the parts will be necessary so that the material matches the rest, but it’s going to be difficult to get it to fill all of the crevices.