# Can someone give me an idea of what the Form 2 Z-axis is comparable to other 3D Printers with an Z resolution

Or is the Form 2 layer resolution the XY?

Anyhow I understand in one axis it can go as fine as 25microns but what does the Laser Spot Size of
140 microns even mean or I should ask …what does it compare to in microns?

How different is it to a 3D Printer that prints 25 microns in XY and Z?

You can search the forum for “Laser Spot Size” or read this Whitepaper. http://forum.formlabs.com/uploads/formlabs/original/2X/6/6376290e21cdc12fc1bdd533eab8aabcff137cf2.pdf

I did both. Still no comparable XY resolution.

Well going on assumption…

The laser moves around etcha sketch style and not in a grid like a DLP. So if they programed it right, the XY should or could be infinitely small. It would then be up to the resolution on a machines motor controls, which is hard to list specs on, when the laser pretty much comes from a center point (the last mirror).

If the laser itself is 140 micron, then that is the smallest dot it will make if the laser just sits in one spot long enough to cure a dot. However, if they programed any tricks into the machine, even this could be made smaller, if the laser was to rotate in a circle curing an overlapping center, it cold theoretically make a 70 micron dot or line. But there would likely be fuzz floating in the resin when your done. it is also unlikely you will want to print something this thin, as it would just break…

I asked this elsewhere - the answer was that the Form2 has 10u accuracy on the galvos edge-to-edge, same as the 1+.
So while the minimum feature size is larger than some of the DLP-based printers, the positioning accuracy is significantly higher.

As you point out, it’s not entirely wise to print that thin…

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thank you both for the input. Though Im still unsure at this point if the Form 2 will give my the details I need (and smooth enough) for my 32mm miniatures. Since my Form 2 was pushed back another month, Im still contemplating canceling my order. Im guessing if I stick it out ad give the Form 2 a try, if it doesnt give me what I need, I imagine I can sell it on eBAY for most of my money back to get a DLP that will perform as needed.

Form2 X/Y resolution is very high, enough to where you won’t see any layering in that direction. The bigger stat is the Z resolution, which is controlled by however far the platform can move and the settings, this goes down to 25 microns which is still very good.

Hi Wisdomknight,

Attached is a photo of one of the miniatures i have produced using my form2. It has a coat of primer on it in the photo.

Kevin

Thank you, that really good to know then.

Hi Kevin, I cant thank you enough for that picture!
This is exactly what I have been hoping to see to rid me of any doubt regarding the Form 2 printing minis.
I will definitely wait for my Form 2 now! I picture is worth a million words as they say

Glad i could be of help. I have had my form2 for only a few weeks but I have produced probably about a dozen or so sculpts on it and I must say it has worked flawlessly.

I am very very happy with it.

Kevin

Man thats so good to hear! You miniature is gorgeous btw!
Can you post any more pics of your other sculpts?

What kind of primer do you use?
I have horrible luck with primer, I primed warhammer minis before and it took away all the detail on it.

The printer does excellent detail and finish, the only downside for this type of thing is the support structure–supports need to be attached to parts that can easily be sanded. There’s also a bit of loss of detail on downward facing surfaces due to how the light bleeds through the currently printing layer and cures extra material on the opposite side, the black resin does the best results for that since it blocks the light more.

As for primer–Tamiya primer works really well, keeps detail and then just let it dry overnight to make sure.

I ordered mine with grey resin, Im wondering if they allow me to change my resin that comes along in the package?
Thanks for the primer suggestion.

I do have an airbrush. Does anyone use one to prime theyre prints over a can spray? Wondering if I would have better results.

I just use the spray can, you can probably target the primer better with an airbrush, but the spray can works just fine. I use either regular primer or the fine surface primer.

I’m not sure if you can change your resin, but since it’s a long time to ship you might be able to, contact the customer support.

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