Test of Blue-Cast: compatible and castable resin


#170

Is there a difference in the cleaning, casting curing procedure between BlueCast Original and Low Shrinkage?

Looking at Low Shrinkage and wanted to know what the optimal method to cure is. I generally have my prints into casting process in less than 18 hours

For Low Shrinkage are people using V2 Castable or V3 Gray? Also I have quite a few empty V2 Castable Cartridges that I can use in order to have the heating element going?

Heating the resin required … ambient temp is normally about 24-26 C

thanks for any advice … getting some porosity with V2 Castable … especially with platinum so exploring other options

Also is one able to do stone in place casting with this resin?

Thanks!


#171

Hi,

After reading this thread, I interest in purchasing the Bluecast resin but was wondering if somebody can answer some questions.

  1. Has anybody tried with R&R Ultravest? I see that several people tired Plasticast but was wondering if Ultravest will work and be able to hand the 800C or 850C.

  2. I have seen a lot of posts with the original Bluecast but not with the new Low Shrinkage one. What will be the main difference?


#172

Add 1.5% Boric Acid by Investment weight to Ultravest and it will be good for 850C. Also makes it harder to better withstand swelling. Careful… reduces working time, glossoff in 12 minutes.


#173

Will steam de-waxing the resin before putting it in the oven help?


#174

No. These materials are not wax and don’t “melt”; they incinerate at high temperature so steam dewaxing is not going to help.


#175

If someone wants to know more about bluecast resin he can see www.bluecast.info


#176

Can you explain what ‘gypsum’ is ?!


#177

When they say “gypsum,” I believe that’s how they refer to investment. :slight_smile:


#178

I’m using the Neutec large wax sprue system, so I do steam dewax before putting into the kiln.

@rclaborne, have you tried the boric acid addition with any other investment? Do you know what it does specifically? How long are you burning out at that temperature? I’m guessing it’s pretty clean?


#179

I don’t think anyone ever replied to this one…
I haven’t used the low-shrinkage yet, but the beauty of BlueCast is not having to cure. They list specifics of washing the prints under running IPA, but I just wash as usual in my Formlabs wash station and it works fine. I dry them, then invest. I’m actually guilty of using my hair dryer to speed things up, but if I have time I let them air dry. I live in a humid climate, so air dry sometimes takes awhile.

I have not used BlueCast in other cartridges. I filter it back into the BlueCast bottle if I’m not printing within a day or two. Castable resins are VERY caustic and will cause your tray to degrade more quickly. I recommend not leaving any castable resin on the printer. I have had a tray fail on my printer…printer was okay, but cleanup was not fun!

I use a baby bottle warmer to warm the BlueCast resin before printing. Since I always filter the resin back into the bottle, I take the 1/2 liter bottle and put it in a Philips Avent bottle warmer, which has a setting that is the same as the recommended temperature for BlueCast. Then pour it into the tray.

I have not heard of anyone doing the cast-in-place stones in resin, with the thought being that the temperature for burnout is much higher than the lower temperature used for cast-in-place. I found this discussion on the B9 site. https://www.b9c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1985

:slight_smile:


#180

Hi Everyone.
DO you show me the reason why product after casting is not good( use resin Bluecast Original.

.
Thanks


#181

Hi, as far as I can see sprues are in wrong place, for such big rings best is to have one pillar passing trough ring stem and becoming like a tree with at least 5/6 connections to downside of main face. Please browse images here to understand https://www.facebook.com/BlueCast3d/


#182

I’ve tried it with R&R Ultravest and some others. It does the same thing each time… Makes the investment harder and more resistant to resin expansion. It also increases the temp you can go up to before the material starts to break down. Generally I am holding the high temp for 4 to 5 hours depending on what’s in the can. Naturally I’m speaking of FL Castable V2. I would try BlueCast but too many issues with shrinkage.


#183

Hi, your spray solution seems important, i cast some pieces recently, all is globaly ok except some holes as you can see on wolf nose on the link behind… I don’t know much about consequences of waxit on investment but do you think it can fixe this little holes (porosity) pbls ? And when to spray model with ? (before deliver model to caster or it’s better to put it on cast tree, just before going to hoven ?)
Thank you much Chris !


#184

@RickyMcG - Could you please share the file for the skull ring? I want to make a pen holder out of it.

Chris


#185

You can give a try to BlueCast LS (low shrinkage)


#186

This requirement to immediately cast after printing is not something my workflow can tolerate.


#187

I’ve bought Daylight Castable resin. Here’s my best print with Castable V2 0.025 settings.
I can’t get any further print after this point.
Printing with Grey resin settings was even worse.

What can I try next? Can someone advice what to do?


#188

Daylight castable? The one from photocentric3D? That’s not suitable for the Form2.


#189

Are you sure? I bought this according recommendation that it is suitable.