@ Douw - the settling was one of the problems (on long prints). Even without the settling of the pigment, the b9 resin by itself does not play well with the Form1. You get bumpy textured surfaces. It may be that something in the b9 resin reacts to the laser/heat in a negative way.
@Jesse - because it’s hard to make a resin that is liquid and solidifies using UV/Light without adding some nasty chemicals into it that don’t play well with heat and fire 
@Kevin - completely agree with you on the melting part. I did a test on the b9 resin with a torch and that’s exactly what it does, it turns liquid and melts, then burns. The form1 resins, they bubble, get crusty, smoke and turn black and then into ash.
Did my tests, and will need to go to the 70/30 mix since with larger parts the 50/50 I think has too much settling. All the parts printed fine though with no failure. The B9 Cherry makes them very flexible and rubbery which is kind of cool.
Hey Monger
I’ve just spent the past hour and a half reading through the entire post, what a ride… - I feel like I just got my PhD in photosensitive resins
I’ve been experimenting lately with large scale parts (ie. multiple prints for a single part) and been having interesting results - will create a post soon detailing my experience. I’ve also been experimenting with creating my own supports as I feel the supports generated by the software even a the lowest settings are about 90% waste. Anyways I saw the picture of the ring with a single support you posted above and found it funny since I had just been thinking of the same idea.
So I had a couple of questions about how you do your supports that I was hoping you could enlighten me on:
1- around how thick do you make the base / and what is the minimum area coverage you have found works
2- how thick are the supports themselves and how thick are the touchpoints?
3- have you found you are able to get away with very few supports?
For my part I have tried printing some part straight on, with no supports (they are flat at the bottom) and have had some success and some failed prints… I have also been experimenting a lot with hollow models with some interesting results (as doing large scale pieces with a full model would be prohibitively expensive) - post coming on that soon as well.
Keep up the great work!
p.s. will be trying the b9 resin mix soon as the prints you got are absolutely fantastic.
Hey Isaac,
Glad you enjoyed the post. For manual supports, I find that the size of the base depends on how massive your model is. If it’s a ring, a tiny base should do just fine. Don’t make the base too thick, because it will curl when curing and start to peel off. I usually stick with 1mm thickness. As far as coverage, just all the way around the model is enough.
If we are talking about rings, the main support touching the bottom of the shank is pretty thick, because I don’t want the ring to sway and move during the peel process. That’s how you get the nasty lines. As for supporting the overhangs, a thin support will do, with a tiny 0.4mm touchpoint. Again it really depends on your model. Sometimes I put really thick supports when I don’t want he model to be as steady as possible.
The problem with fewer supports is that you need to make sure each layer is supporting the next one. You can easily see this by using the slice slider. If you can manage that, then you can get away with using less supports.
Hope that helps.
Hey Monger,
Thanks for the answer.
I now finally understand what the ‘peeling’ process is :0 thank you for making it clear and also for making clear that thats what causes the lines that appear every so often. Makes sense to put in strong support so there is zero flexibility during the peel 
I am guessing you cut the thick support with heavy duty tweezers and then manually work the shape until it matches the rest of the ring?
Im just wondering, have you gotten ‘step lines’ when printing flat surfaces (see attached pic), I emailed support about this and they have been unable to come up with an answer…
Not sure what I’m looking at there, but if those lines/grooves are not deliberate then there might be something wrong with your machine.
Isaac,
How did you have the part orientated? Can you post up more pictures? Where were the supports? What Z resolution did you use? Did you print the part as 1 piece? Is it hollow?
David
@Monger - I doubt that, im getting perfect prints most of the time. My guess is it had something to do with the orientation and/or the slicing on the part of the software, which has acted screwy in the past
@David - The part was completly vertical, ie. the cube was standing straight as you see it in the picture, no tilt (as I was maxing out the build envelope)
The supports were automatically generated and were below the cube, just a patchwork of supports under the cube which I came to realize are a complete waste and unecessary, also for some reason the underside of the cube (where the supports touched it) was mushy and uncured (see pic)
Printing at 100 microns.
Yes everything is one piece and yes it is hollow, for this print I used a wall thickness of about 2mm I believe.
Since having so much troubles with the supports printing pieces like this I have since started doing my own supports and bases and its working out much better - note, I do not reccomend just printing something like that without supports because it will print fine but you will have one heck of a time getting that cube off the build platform - ask me, I tried it. Its better to put a very thin base (as Monger reccomends), some supports and have the cube sit over that.
The last two images are of a different, more successful print.
Isaac,
That is strange. Did you save the .form? If yes, see if the top is really flat. It really looks like typical stair stepping. Other then that, I have no idea. The print is really cool! The picture of the kind of crummy outcome looks like the bottom. IF it is, it looks right, unfortunately. Is it possible to break up the model? This way you can position each part for an optimal outcome and then just “glue” all the parts together. It looks like the stepping on top is mimicked on the support side. Did PreForm put supports inside the hollow base? What do they look like? If you are willing to share, I would love to try and print one.
David
Hi All
Been experimenting with the B9 Cherry and Formlabs Grey at a 30/60 mix and getting pretty good results but was wondering if anyone had tried Solarez new range of 3d printing resins at all?
So what’s the other 10 percent? 
Hey guys,
Im conducting a little bit of a survey. After going trough plenty of posts im noticing a pattern here… it seems like the form1 is simply unable to print large models with any amount of consistency…
If you have been able to print large models consistently, say more than 5 without a fail, please let me know here:
https://support.formlabs.com/entries/34042718-Layers-Sticking-to-Tank-Failed-Prints-and-More-?page=1#post_24682383
For the purposes of this discussion, lets define large as a larger than 10cm sans supports on the longest axis… c’mon large, you know what I mean…
Hey Monger, just wanted to know what your thoughts are on the Asiga Freeform Pico or Pro?
Hey All
Referring to my previous post, it was a 30/70 mix (cherry to grey) and I got some nice results from it:
But as you can see on the Batman head one side looks fine, but the other looks very rough, almost like my first attempt that I posted a while back, so that’s a bit weird
Hey Jesse. The quality of the prints is great on the Asiga. However the print area is just too tiny. The new pro printer has a large area with a matching insane price. Also the resin is supposed to be castable (I tried the latest supercast red resin) but it did not cast so well. Looking at their forums, people are just having too many problems with it. And also the resin is very expensive.
Hey Jason, nice prints! The bumpiness issues on one side of the print are not exclusive to the mix. I have had that with my grey resin prints from time to time. It may be caused by tiny bubbles created by the peel process maybe? Not sure.
Hey Monger, indeed the build area on the Pico is too small and $350/500 ml for material. So I may give that a miss then. I was wondering, have you printed a plain band ring and it does not come out true? I just printed a series of five bands in various sizes and they all have thicker areas at opposite sides of each ring, this is frustrating and have tried in different orientations and mostly use the default support settings. Have you noticed that the Form1 doesn’t do a perfect circle? And a ring being a circle makes it an up hill battle with producing a satisfactory result.
Jesse, they come out pretty much like perfect circles for me. If you are getting ellipses instead, your printer may need to be recalibrated. Have you tried contacting formlabs support?
Hi
I’ve been experimenting with Solarez resin and posted as a separate entry if anyone is interested.
Hey Monger, http://kevvox.com/ looks interesting.