Oops lol Itās helpful to see if the slots are closed and the thickness of the text.
Is the least optimal solution
Weāve tried that and it works to a certain extend
Iām really interested in the results when using less blocker. Maybe adding too much made it saturated and not everything dissolved? My chemical knowledge is not enough so itās just a guess. Can you dissolve it by heating? Or if it dissolved(as you said it is a sludge) you indeed need much less.
Try printing with lower amounts of resin in the tray to save material.
I still think UV Blocker would be the way to go. As I said before, try to dissolve some in resin and use that to dose into the printing resin.
But itās only in the Z axis. Like somebody else pointed out above, its like the resin hasnāt fully dripped off of the part and it cures through the area that needs to be cured, and into that extra pooled resin. I wonderā¦ should I try raising the Z offset? That way the laser would physically have to take more distance to get to the part and potentially have just less enough energy to not overcure through the intended layer?
I think the Z-depth issue can be explained because the laser has a certain diameter limit, but not a penetration depth limit. So it is easier to go too deep into the layer than to penetrate sideways.
Pretty interesting though, cause photocentric resin also cures too much to the sides. Does this have to do with cross linking? Dunno, just a guess, not a chemic expert.
Very interesting article. I have put a very small amount of UV blocker with about 100 mL of Bucktown Clear and am printing again. If it dislodges from the build plate, I put too much in again, which to be honest, looks like I did. You might be on to something in order to get it to dissolve. I donāt really have any good heat source here, but I guess I could try to do that at some point (but if I had to do that, I wouldnāt anyways in the long run). Maybe a small amount of IPA to dissolve and then mix with resin?
Without scales is really hard to have control on the concentration, in particular if it is by weight and not volume. Powders can have really different weights.
For the dispersion, maybe IPA is not the best choice, as if could ruin the resin. Glycol ether might be a better idea. For complete dissolution of the powder a gently heated ultrasound bath could be optimal, but maybe some generous stirring could do too.
Hello everybody!
I own 2 kind of resin and print jewelry models in open-mode with those. Blue-cast resin & wax-cast resin of marker juice company.
but unfortunately we have problem in z-axis ( layer thickness) for example: 0.60 mm of thickness in Z-axis increases about 0.25 mm after print when we meassure.
we printed some 101010 mm cubes as tests with Blue-cast resin(3rd party resin)( which you see in photos) 2 of them I rotate them (orient) 45 degree toward Y-axis or x-axis.
2 of them without any rotation.after we measure the dimentions we donāt have error in 2 models which are 45 degree oriented but others have about 0.30 mm error (10.30 mm in Z-axis)
whatās your Idea?
how can we solve it?
I think itās the same problem as above: the UV blocker or pigment donāt stop the laser early enough and the light bleeds in the Z direction. The problem in the ones rotated 45 degrees is still there, but itās less evident (divided by square root of 3 if Iām not wrong)
@zomorrodjewelry If @Polariz3D is correct, than I think there are 4 different ways to reduce the cure depth:
Create a custom resin profile for the Form1+ with a dialed down laser setting (if you have a Form2, we are out of luck for now).
Add pigment or dye to the resin in very small doses until your test cube is accurate
Purchase some of the UV blocker mentioned above and add slowly until test print comes out accurate.
Blend the maker juice with a different resin that does cure accurately, and the hope would be that you thin out the āinaccurate resinā with a more āaccurateā resin.
Since 0.3 mm is kinda small, I wouldnāt think you would need too much of items 2-4, if you were planning on attempting that.
The main problem I would wonder about would be the actual casting of the altered resins, and if everything burned out properly etc.
If you have a Form2, before you do anything else, maybe try printing the same cube with the FL Clear V3 and V2 profiles and see if that helps. Castable is one of the highest laser power settings and Clear is one of the lowest.
Getting back to Bucktown Polymers, noticed there is a new SLA resin EP200-V420, cheaper and that comesā in high and low sensitivity (read DLP and Laser).
Itās not really clear how it compares to the ZVE200, but at $99 for 4 litres I wonder if anyone is curious to split costs, 4 ways ideally, an place a order for UK.
Anyone interested?