Bucktown Clear with 20 drops of black pigment from FTD
Form2
0.1mm
Point size 0.6mm
This is getting VERY VERY close. Detail looks outstanding, cross-linked supports are thinner… Another 10 drops?
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Still pretty translucent so yeah, another 10 could do it.
Maybe it’s time to start taking some measurements(if you have a caliper). That will tell quite a lot.
Maybe more then 10. The supports still look rather thick to me. I am looking at the gap that is almost non-existent between the 2 really close supports.
These results really are good and showing signs of success. Thank you for doing these tests!
-David
Maybe time for that 4"x4"x4" cube…
Yeah, just kidding.
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Maybe more than 10 but once you go too far, you can’t go back and have to throw the resin away. You can learn a lot from the small steps with measurements. But you are right, maybe in the end you need 20 or 30 more drops.
As I tried to tell someone else here op the forum… It would be very interesting to start printing some really difficult parts soon so we can evaluate shrinkage, surface quality, laser flare, warpage, etc. Your results so far do make me excited about bucktown resin. 
The parts you printed so far would be easy with photocentric resin as well.
He has plenty of resin and is not worried about ‘wasting’ time and resin lol.
I’m dying over here… holy shit 
But, on that note. I can’t stand to see another Eiffel Tower, let’s do some dimensional accuracy prints as I keep on adding drops. And while I really wanted to wait to hear what you both had to say, I went ahead and added 10 more drops and I got it printing right now. 1 hr 14 minutes to go. What print should I do for the measuring test (yes I do have a digital caliper)?
I think the best thing to print is a cube. Flat on the build platform. Maybe 4, one in each corner. There is one .form file on here somewhere (but it is obviously very easy to redraw) that was used to calibrate a Form 1. .25" cubes 4" apart (from inside to inside edges).
After the outside dimensions are printing accurately I say a cube on supports with 3 circular holes intersecting. After the supports are removed the outside dimensions can be checked as well as the internal holes.
Sometimes I crack myself up… I am glad you guys like my sense of humor.
Something fast and simple would be the formtest file: https://openjscad.org/#http://pastebin.com/raw.php?i=sW7Virx1
It will show you capability of minimum wall thickness, text and slots.
A box like this is already a challenge for photocentric resin: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2247241
Maybe you know something more useful.
Can’t think of anything useful at the moment. Already 1:44 AM, but had to stay awake to see your results. 
Nah, I can just add more of my 4KG can of clear to it right?
I don’t see why not. The only issue would be, recreating the proper mix. You would have to dilute it proportionally to continue testing with it.
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When I try to load the generated test file, it says it is broken and needs repair. I’m worried that If I click on “Repair” it will fill bridges or gaps that I don’t want filled/connected, and if I click “Ignore” I might get some false negative results due to a screwy .stl. Maybe I will try the NEMA Stepper motor until I hear back from you guys. 42 min left on 30 drops.
This. It is difficult to recreate.
Just repair it and it will be fine. I’ve printed that part already a lot of times.
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Calibration Cubes.zip.pdf (694.3 KB)
It is a zip file. Just remove the .pdf
The cubes are .25" cubes 4" apart from the inside edge.
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Bucktown Clear with 30 drops of black pigment from FTD
Form2
0.1mm
Point size 0.6mm
SO CLOSE! I should have waited to listen to you guys… Oh well. Cross-linking supports much thinner, but still too thick. Same detail level. I measured the supports:
Vertical Supports: 1.3mm
Cross-Linking Supports: 1.6mm
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Bucktown Clear with 30 drops of black pigment from FTD
Form2
0.1mm
Point size 0.6mm
Cube Calibration
I think:
Z height: 5.77 mm (0.227 inches)
X width: 6.42 mm (0.252 inches)
Y width: 6.42 mm (0.252 inches)
Post Cure:
Z: 5.93 mm (0.233 inches)
X: 6.43 mm (0.253 inches)
Y: 6.43 mm (0.253 inches)
The reason I say “I think” is because I dislodged the cubes before recording the orientation. The measurements are accurate, but I’m only 95% sure on orientation.
I forgot to add 10 more drops for the cube calibration, so I will do that right now and go home for the day. I will report back on the new dimensions with the added 10 drops.
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Ok so I had to stay for the last print, it was only 30 min. Here we go:
Bucktown Clear with 40 drops Black FTD pigment
Form2
0.1mm
Z axis: 5.53 mm (0.2177 inches)
Y axis: 6.38 mm (0.251 inches)
X axis: 6.38 mm (0.251 inches)
Will cure and re-measure.
Printing now:
Until tomorrow!
Yoder out.
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Nice! Do they still feel tack free?
The wine glass needs to be printed at something like a 20~30 degree angle towards the wiper to get the best quality.
I am a little concerned with the X and Y dimensions compared to the Z.
It may be worth (before printing anymore tests) printing off a test with FL resin. How accurate are your prints currently with FL resin? Assuming they are ~perfect, as they should be, this resin is acting strange. It is over-curing while printing small.
How much compression takes place with the Form 2? It seems that there isn’t any. Pretty cool.
Yes they still feel pretty tack free. Even less so after a proper cure.
I usually print all my parts at an angle, but I thought I would make it a bit more interesting 
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I will fire off a FL resin cube test once my next print finishes, unfortunately it is another larger one, so unless it fails, I got another 5 hrs to wait.
I’m not exactly sure what you mean about the compression (I’m assuming you noticed something on the cube prints), but during the peel process I think I can actually hear a muffled, but audible “release” when the part detaches from the PDMS, maybe indicating a decent amount of compression? I also feel like even with normal FL resins, during the raft/base adhesion segment of the prints, when it initially starts to slowly peel it sounds like the part is drug along the PDMS for a moment until it ultimately separates.