Form 1 / 1+ / 2 3rd Party Resin Settings Master List


#388

Below the tool I designed and ordered. Should be ready in a few weeks.
It has a mini USB connection and only needs one press of a button to reset a tank :slight_smile:


#389

Well that was fast lol. Does it just reset for now or program too?


#390

Just reset for now.
But I’ll be ordering some prototype chips too which can be flashed to any type of resin. :slight_smile:


#391

@fantasy2 you are a freaking beast!! Well done brother!!!


#392

Sorry, dumb question:

If the location of the capacitive sensor that self-regulates the volume of resin in the tank is behind the resin tank, how would it be able to detect any type of anything since it is not in direct contact with the resin?


#393

I just found a good article on how it works if anyone is interested (I think they are using the exact same sensor that is in the Form2):

[edit] Some more info and diagram (trying to think of ways to trick the sensor…):


Convert White Resin Cartridge to Black Resin by modifying chip ID
#394

Here is a bit more info on the EEPROM chip that is in each cartridge of resin (everything I list below is strictly from reading @fantasy2 's comments and a bunch of googling):

  1. It is a 1024-Bit, 1-Wire EEPROM chip made by Maxim Integrated (chip ID DS2431)

  2. Website: https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/digital/memory-products/DS2431.html

  3. Datasheet: https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS2431.pdf

  4. Per the datasheet, the memory structure of this chip is 1024 bits of EEPROM memory partitioned Into four pages of 256 bits for each page (page 0-3). The DS2431 EEPROM array consists of 18 rows of 8 bytes each. The first 16 rows are divided equally into the four memory pages mentioned earlier (32 bytes each). These pages contain the info we are interested in. The last two rows contain protection registers and reserved bytes.

  5. Using all of this info, and the work @fantasy has done, the chip’s memory should be looking like:

Unfortunately I haven’t figured out the hex yet, but this might help someone attempt to decipher it. I was wondering if the chip id is used somehow as a hash key, or XOR’d with each row or something.

Also, @fantasy2, I noticed in the datasheet it mentions in bold “All data is read and written least significant
bit first.” which I’m thinking should still be ok, but I just wanted to verify that the hex output you got doesn’t need to be reversed or something weird.

Good luck everyone!! Let’s GO!!


#395

Any recent progress to be noted?


#396

No updates from me. I’m waiting for parts to arrive. :slight_smile:


#397

Ah good.I’m excited about the progress towards programmable chips lol.


#398

Hi All
Thanks for the positive feedback and results that you had with our 3Dresyns.
We would like to let you know that all our commercial 3Dresyns can be ordered now ready to print: “100% fine tuned” to the Form 1+ and Form 2, as well as to all Asiga and Wanhao D7 printers.
Upon request we can incorporate your chosen basic, special and/or any RAL or NCS custom color to any of our 3Dresyns, from ultra hard and tough to elastic grades.
We can also incorporate the optimum dosage of our accelerant Fine Tuners FT1 or FT2 and our light blocker Fine Tuner LB1 to save you time and ensure optimum resolution and print quality.
We will carry on selling separately our pigment pastes and Fine Tuners FT1, FT2 and LB1 for users who like to play with lower or higher color strength and with our Fine Tuner additives.

You are Welcome!

Greetings
John


#399

Hi John,

It’s not very clear to me how you tuned it for the Form 2. I cannot select the form 2 on your website anywhere? Does this mean this is a general tuning for all types of laser/DLP printers?

I’m interested in your chemical resistant resin and saw something about a conductive resin. Are they ready to run on a form 2?


In other news: all components for the programmers arrived! :smiley:
Some testing for me to do this week and I hope to have them available in two weeks.


Base will stick to the plate, the rest wont?
#400

Just a quick update on the apply labwork resins. I printed a quick injection mold trial part last night and will be running it later today.

I did see some warping up from the build platform on these parts so my machine probably needs to have the platform height tuned a bit. There were no complete failures but I did notice a bit of warpage on the back side. Not an issue for this part. The print detail was excellent.

We’ll see how the resin holds up under the high temperatures and stresses of injection molding. The temps are way above what the resin can handle so it’s not a question of if the mold will fail but when. I got about 40 or 50 parts from a Formlabs standard resin print like this.


#401

Interesting with the injection molding!

I’m planning to do that also, but I have no idea how to. FredB, could you say something of how you go about when you do your molding?


#402

anyone ever have any luck with b9 resins yellow and emerald on a form 2?


#403

The material couldn’t handle the temperatures for plastic injection. The temp is way above the max temp listed but I figured it was worth a try.

I have an aluminum frame that holds the prints for molding. This is by far the best way to go even for the small desktop machines.

Polypropylene is your friend. If you need the part to be stiffer use 10% glass filled material. It takes some looking to find glass filled but it’s worth it.


#404

Thanks for the answer!

I was thinking about using ABS-plastic. The glass I guess would be a good thing for me to make the Polypropylene less flexible.

What are the benefits of using Polypropylene? I guess it floats well in mold.

And why did you choose to print a mold instead of printing a prototype and then casting a mold around it?


#405

ABS just takes a bit more work to get right. The temp is a bit higher and it likes a bit more temperature. It’s just not as easy to work with. Polypropylene does flow well in the mold even with glass filled parts. It’s also more durable when used in hobby machines (the controls just aren’t there for ABS).

Most of the molds I do are for very short part runs to prove out a design. Printing a mold is faster than casting around a master part. That said I do have a project currently that will use a casting to make a 4 part mold.


#406

Thanks. I will go for Polypropylene!

Do post a picture of your plastic injection setup or of some of the things you casted if you want to! : )


#407

As some of you were wondering if I am still alive: Yes!
It’s going a bit slower than expected as I wanted to make things more pretty…

Hardware for the programmers arrived and is working. Housing for the electronics fits perfectly, I can read and program the chips and I’m now working on the software side. :slight_smile:

It will be as simple as one button press after you see a green light.