Like the title says, have some form2 grey resin prints that I’d like to do a cleanup pass on with a Dremel, looking for recommendations on attachments that would be good for removing support bumps and some captured resin clumps but won’t gun up or dig hard into the resin.
I think it’s very easy to go too far with a Dremel whichever attachment you’re using. Personally I use a combination of needle files, Wet & Dry paper and/or a Proxxon Pen Sander. I’ve also had some success using a sharp modelling knife or a scalpel to cut the bumps off reasonably flush.
I wouldn’t go on Dremel for this, its too aggressive.
I’m also using scalpel and wet & dry paper.
I’m using Dremel to cut through the entire part or to reshape it if i messed up with the design.
By the way, I found the grinding stone head for dremel as the best one to cut through Formlabs material. Dimon or regular head taking longer. The disadvantage is that it is very thick head and taking a lot of material. Also tons of dust.
I use the “Wondercutter S” ultrasonic razor knife. Cuts right through the supports
using very little pressure.
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. I general I would suggest a split shank plus fine wet and dry, maybe start at 320 or 400 grit, or if you could find one, a miniature flap wheel Again you would need one with a similar grit. You could use rubber wheels, but they would tend to ‘dig in’ unless you were very careful or skilled.
Personally I use a 6 inch second cut engineer’s file, but then I’ mostly cleaning up edges.
I use a split shaft with various sandpaper grades, but I agree that 320 or 400 are best for most situations. Aggressive enough to grind down the support nubs but not so much that it won’t easily mar the surface of the model.
I have a Dremel tool, but found it to be a bit hard to handle, especially when dealing with very fine details, so instead I bought a nail sander and diamond tipped sanding bits.
It’s so much easier to handle since it’s really pen sized, it’s technically one speed, 20,000 rpm, but that rating is with the 3.7V rechargeable battery it came with, so when I use a standard 1.5V battery, the speed drops dramatically, to around 7,500 rpm. Also one battery lasts a very long time.
I also use a Proxxon pen sander, but that’s mostly good on larger, near flat surfaces. The small pen and long fine bits let me get into small areas and crevices.
It depends on how easy you can get the tool bit in to the area you need to sand. I mostly use the micro-sander for larger smooth surfaces, and for things where there’s details I use various files.
I am using the flexible extension of the Dremel 4000 (hanging the Dremel 4000 from the ceiling) so I can use the flexible extension like a light weight pen with all sorts of attachments.
As it is light I can use it for longer cutting and „grinding“ as the heavier main device but have the necessary power at hand - so to say.
Maybe this can solve your challenges as well
Any tip on a dremel works fine as long as you Do Not Turn the Dremel ON.
Just hold the dremel like you would the handle on a file.
Rotary tools are just really overkill for cleaning off the support points- especially since they improved the contact points so they tend to break away proud of the surface rather than shy of it.
For MOST cleaning I use an exacto knife. Often planing the surface by dragging the edge across it sidewise.
For others I use a thin strip of sandpaper mounted to a thin stick.
Emery boards that girls use for their nails also work well, you can cut them to fit into very tight spots.
Dudemiester’s nail tool is about the only powered tool I would get near a print that took ten plus hours to get.
Its just too easy for a dremel to run away and mar an otherwise good surface.
I tried several methods before investing in a Wondercutter - Dremel is too likely to grind away or snap tiny details that you’d probably want to keep. I lost so many limbs on models (so many little Yoshi figures lost fingers) before I picked one up. No going back now, it’s possibly the best purchase I made for the hobby.