Has any one else run into difficulty removing the the new supports? Especially on smaller thin parts? I’m finding that it has become difficult to no break the printed piece as the new supports are so interconnected that I can’t get into the center areas to remove them. Suggestions?
My first stop would be to play with the advanced support settings and see if you can get by with less dense supports and smaller touchpoints. That might ease removal somewhat.
I’m printing large® objects and I’m having a good experience so far. So, I’m already a big fan of the new supports. That being said, they definitely don’t snap off the parts without leaving a big mark – but that’s always been the case for me.
So far, I’ve used cutters to cut the supports as close to the base as possible. With the bottom 3mm gone, you can come in and make some vertical cuts (perpendicular to where the build platform was) and then wiggle them a little bit to fatigue them off the part.
David’s suggestion is spot on.
Still waiting for my printer, but i’ve been using very similar support structures with other printers (FDM and homebrew SLA) and that’s solid advise - snip close to base and then either wiggle straight away or work your way upwards until you clear all the cross-struts. Be careful to keep the part steady when doing this, however, especially if it’s a fine print.
@David_Clark and @BryanHaven, what are your touch point sizes?
If your part does not have a large peel area, you can set these very small (I typically print with them as low as possible). On most of my prints, I can very easily break the support structure loose by hand with no snippers needed.
For a flat model like this, just run it under real warm water to give the supports some flex, then break all the supports with a butter knife in one shot. It works like a charm for me.
Awesome! Can you do a quick video of you doing this? Love to get the technique right the first time 
Maybe I will if I print something flat soon. But the plastic holds heat well enough you don’t need to be fast or anything. Just have the butter knife handy when you start rinsing it.
First of all, thanks for all the suggestions. These are about 45mm x 35mm x 1mm. I used the smallest touch point size (0.4mm) and minimum density (0.5). The peel areas are small but there are complex curves in the surfaces and there are a lot of voids in the part.( these particular designs are maple leaf earrings) and are particularly delicate. I’m using about 10x the volume of the part in supports.
I have found the new supports to be vastly superior to the old. We ran some big parts that came out perfectly and they seem to break away much better than the old.
If I am in a rough mood and a hurry, I just cut the base of the supports off with a bandsaw which lets you get into the interior supports. Usually though I just go after it with clippers with the intent to get the base off first and then the supports from the model. We have some small sprue cutters that we use that seem to create low compression in the bit you are cutting. (still use safety glasses)
I’m sure others are doing this but for most parts we now try to remove the supports before rinse and post harden. Removing the supports before cleaning saves your isoproply.